From my experience aji amarillo doesn’t take that much longer. Maybe a few weeks more from seed to ripe, which partially might be from the climate. And even if it isn’t, it’s a relatively small difference compared to the fastest which might take 4 months. I would say people say it (or others) take long out of habbit. It can also be a self fulfilling prophecy. They are started early because supposedly they take a long time, but then they are grown in low light conditions long and eventually transplants that aren’t used to strong light are transplanted, which causes transplant shock that slows down the growth even more. And that’s how you get them to take long. Not to say this what happens to peppergeek. He’s can be just stating that relatively little more time it takes and it get’s missinterpreted.
If I remember correctly, it’s just a misunderstanding that annuums would be annual species. How this came to be I’m not sure, but since it would easily die over the winter in many places, it seems logical.
No, and I’m not that interested in making that wide crosses. Only thing that I would be missing from the annuums is the shorter ripening cycle that in some cases take around 50 days instead of more common 60 days, which in baccatum seems to be more like a rule. Have to see if that can be achieved just by normal breeding. Might also go to chinense for that, as it’s more consistent in fast ripening cycle.
Thank you! That’s exactly the info I was lookin for. Good Idea on planting them when they want to be planted, when soils are warmer. Ideally I’d love to landrace my peppers to be direct sown. Plus even unripe peppers can ripen off vine indoors (I’ve done it with many Grocery Store Unripe peppers).
Capsicum flexulosum is the most cold hardy pepper species right? What is the Capsicum limit for Cold hardiness? Is it possible to graft it onto a more cold hardy Solanaceae relative? I’m thinking Lycianthese rantonnetii (Cold Hardiness at least 9), since Lycianthese is sister to the Capsicum genus. I might even try Solanum dulcamara or Lycium barbarum to graft onto to increase cold hardiness if Lycianthse or Capsicum isn’t cold hardy enough.
Who knows maybe I can even graft mutli-colored fruits onto 1 shurb, making the pepper version of the 9 fruit tree (Various Prunus spp. grafts). Would be cool to have Ripe Green, Red, Brown, Purple, White, Orange, Yellow & maybe even blue (With the help of Lycianthse acapulcensis Blue-fruited genetics) Peppers all on 1 shrub. Plus the close proximity of the grafts encourages more out-crossing & even wind pollination when the branches touch each other via wind.
Interesting, I’ve seen so many Youtube gardeners report how much faster Over-wintered plants produce fruits & much more of them. Could the whole reason just be them starting seeds so early indoors thus hindering them when they adjust to outdoors?
Very interesting, these 50-60 cycles are from seed or from flower pollination of mature plants? Cuz I’ve seen the Days to Maturity much longer than 60 days on C. baccantum.
I suppose. All capsicum that I know of survive quite hard frosts, but loose leaves. I have heard of some annuum surviving -20C, although I can’t say in which conditions. There are so many factores that affect hardiness to temperatura and one might easily die over a wet winter without any hard frosts.
I don’t know. Haven’t really had the interest in grafting for years.
They are, or can be faster, but what it demands relative to reward is too much to make it worth it. You might get a small crop that is developing before the time is to plant them to bigger and/or move outdoors. It’s only then when they really start to grow and produce the main crop, which would come about same time as ones from ideal transplant size. Unless they get really bad transplant/move shock and are delayed. In the space of one overwintered or very early started pepper plant you can grow 10-20 transplants that are about ideal size by the time of transplanting, that eventually will produce more with less trouble. In my experience it just isn’t worth the trouble if there isn’t something else about the plant that you want to conserve.
That’s Incredible! -20c!? That puts it into Hardiness Zone 6. Is there an effective way to get Peppers to drop their leaves & Lignify their stems like Cold Hardy Trees? I know the more Lignified the stem is, the more cold hardy it is.
Very good you mention a wet winter without any hard frosts killing the plants, that puts a lot into perspective. Ideally I’d love to not have to dig out my theorized Pepper Plants every year if the same plant can survive winter without it.
I know people who do overwinter them in pots, first give the peppers are HARD Prune & remove all the leaves then they put it somewhere cool but not freezing like a garage. Does the plant actually go dormant tho? I feel like the light hitting the pruned branches will stimulate leaf growth too early making it counter-productive to getting the plant to remain dormant.
Ha, that’s an interesting point. I guess then Replanting an entire plant is only good for preserving the exact same variety? Makes me wonder if Taking a cutting to root is easier? I’d Ideally like to do both (Especially for Breeding), as I can have the best Plant Re-pollinate & Re-enforce it’s genetics into my landrace (Altho I wonder if Mentor Grafting is easier).
Also does Pruning your Pepper plants help them make more fruit/yield? I’ve heard both sides of the issue, something tells me it depends. I know summer pruning on fruit trees makes them fruit like crazy but what is summer pruning in the context of peppers? They don’t really go dormant like temperate trees right? I mean peppers are technically short-lived perennial shrubs are they not?
I would be skeptical. Firstly, no reason to breed one when you can sell greens just like before. You will find many different mixes that have green ones also, so then those should be also. Secondly, and most importantly, no seeds can be found on sale. Selling seeds of something that is first of it’s kind is good business. Likely is that they are picked at the right moment when they aren’t as mature that they would ripen of the vine properly. Can’t even say based on the picture that those seeds are ripe. Normally ripening starts from the inside so it’s perfectly normal that unripe pepper has coloured inside. I had thousands of peppers ripening indoors last fall and especially the ones that took a little longer to ripen (thus being more unripe at the time of pickeng) spend awfully long time with little colour, if it ever turned colour properly.
I was at first but I’ve never tasted a Sweet unripe Pepper if that makes sense. This green one tasted just as sweet as the Red, Yellow & Brown ones. Green Bell Peppers have a strong vegetable taste but I didn’t taste that flavor in the green peppers from “Meadly Sweet Snaps” Package.
Is it possible to breed sweet tasting unripe Peppers? I wonder if it could be half-way ripe? But if so, that would make it the Sweetest pepper if it is still so sweet only at half-ripeness.
I don’t know, I have yet to find the breeders for this variety. I was thinking they simply didn’t want to release the seeds (But yet I am able to save them form their pepper fruits , maybe they think F2 will stop me but they don’t know I’m a Landrace Gardener )
Most of the seeds inside were plump. But so are unripe Jalapeno & Poblano sometimes.
That’s interesting, do the green bell peppers sold in grocery stores never even reach this stage? I remember green bell peppers being green inside which is why this one stood out to me.
Yes, many times they are sweet when they are just mature enough. I remember many green jalapenos being sweet.
It’s not a single day when those go from never going to ripen to ripen fully off the plant. All peppers tend to go to lighter shade of the unripe colour, but it might be harder to see if you aren’t familiar how that pepper started. Generally those in the shop (at least here) tend to be those that have very dark green as starting colour so if you see those, they are quite unripe. There are probably some varietel traits that allow for longer storage with green colour, but probably it’s mostly because of turnaround in shops is quite fast.
You could see how those turn in couple of weeks. First just look how the stem looks like. Is it recently cut or has it shrunk significantly. Those in the picture do look like quite freshly cut.
WOW! I did not know that. I should try it altho all the Green Bell Peppers I ate weren’t sweet.
Oh that’s a good idea, I’ve done that with Green Pobalno Peppers to save seeds. Unfortunately I’ve eaten the green one so I won’t be able to test it. I can try next time when I buy it again.
I just wonder why the stems on Red, Yellow, Orange & Brown Peppers are equally as fresh as the green one.
, maybe they think F2 will stop me but they don’t know I’m a Landrace Gardener 
)
WOW! I did not know that. I should try it altho all the Green Bell Peppers I ate weren’t sweet.