Adaptation notes

I finally found someone to till up my garden extension. Next is to somehow get the woodchips spread…

I am setting aside the pepos this year, except to get seeds for my heirloom zucchini which doesn’tseem to appreciate clay soil. Instead I’ll be planting moschatas. I also want to try the cold adapted tomato project again (first time here) and get my cucumbers going.

Since this will be my first season here with a “real” garden, I also want to plant beans and onions, and see what happens with corn.

I wanted to get the garlic in the ground last fall, but with no open space it had to wait. I hope some of it is still good.

With the standing rule, “No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy,” I move forward. :rofl:

9 Likes

It may sound strange but one of the best hand tools to use on a pile of woodchips you want to move is a hay fork. Maybe a manure fork, but those tines tend to be closer together. The chips tend to clump together and easily get lifted up and into a wheelbarrow etc. to move to where you want to dump them. Borrow one to try it out and when you see how it works for you then consider buying one if you intent to move woodchips a lot in future.

Of course a small front loader tractor would be even better if you had the room and tractor to start with.

Worst hand tool for moving a large pile of woodchips would be a pointed end shovel.

If you had flat cement that the woodchips are piled on then a flat large snow shovel makes for an OK-ish hand tool.

1 Like

I’m looking at several hundred yards of wood chips. I finally decided just to go ahead and rent a tractor, but then I couldn’t find anyone with a large enough truck to haul it! The rental place requires a 3/4 ton pickup. The largest any of my friends have is 1/2 ton.

I’ve been spreading them by hand for about a year. It has made a dent, but still a lot to do!

2 Likes

Agreed.

1 Like

I moved over 180 cubic yards of woodchips by hand with just a flat shovel and a wheelbarrow. Not doing that again this lifetime but it’s now done and completed and now I’m only in maintenance mode so no more Hurculean acts moving such massive amounts by hand in the middle of Texas humidity and high temperature summers. Copious amounts of water and Gatorade helped but I still got a few wicked muscle cramps at nights in the middle of that effort.

1 Like

Tomatoes and peppers, planted a week ago without bottom heat. They do have a single extra light.

I see a few more, and everything else will be discarded and replanted. I do not want to encourage slow or needy germination.

2 Likes

I moved the tomatoes and peppers out into the greenhouse, just in time for the heat to hit.

Most of the peppers survived. The Italian vining tomato looks the best. My drought tolerant, heat tolerant, sand adapted tomatoes failed miserably. Root rot and damping off, in spite of only being watered once a week. I need to get all that in the ground tomorrow.

The garden extension cold tolerance test has maybe half a dozen corn plants up, no squash or melons. Not unexpected, but I’ll mark the corn that came up without protection and in cold, dry soil.

I found a seedling apricot and maybe half a dozen seedling almonds. No peaches, cherries, plums or apples yet.


The largest success so far was the 15 bean soup I bought in a bag at the grocery store. At least two different colors of beans and maybe lentils? Same circumstances as the dry beans and green beans, but I haven’t seen a hint of those yet.

1 Like

I planted out the survivors from the drought tolerant tomatoes. Their roots were tiny, while the other tomatoes filled their containers. This may be a situation of needing to start over for a new environment.

They looked and acted fine in the pots, first to emerge, fastest growing, but they apparently didn’t like the water holding capacity of the clay soil. First to damp off, first to get root rot, and no attempt to fill the space with roots, which means if they do experience drought they’ll likely be the first to die.

1 Like

How interesting! I can see that, moving from sandy soil to clay soil. I’m assuming you had pure sand in Salt Lake? (We have pure sand down in Provo.)

Yes, pure sand.

Lots of rain in the last few weeks. Watermelons are up, moschatas and other melons are up in what will be the dry garden. No corn yet. 15 bean soup still looks amazing. 2 pumpkins up from the cold tolerance test, and if they fruit I’ll keep their seeds preferentially.

Potatoes are looking very sad. We’ll see how that works out. I may need to use TPS or plant in another area. Tomatoes are mostly varieties, since my drought tolerant tomatoes didn’t like the clay soil.

I need to plant the start of my new green bean landrace tomorrow. Since green beans are one of the few food items I still purchase, it’s more important than the dry beans.

First blossom. This is one of the Romas.


Lentil?

Another bean

Found the first squash bug eggs on the pumpkins yesterday. Only one plant, but I didn’t look carefully. I will be following the same process as last year–pick off what I find but don’t stress it.

I was always told that squash bugs find the plants by the color of the flowers, but these aren’t even close to flowering so I’m stumped.

Pumpkins and moschatas are all planted about 5 feet apart, with other plants/weeds between. The hope is that distance and obstructions will protect the plants long enough. My pepos last year seemed to mostly shrug off the squash bugs, but succumbed eventually to the vine borers. I’m not sure how pumpkins or moschatas will respond.

Corn is up, dry beans ripening, sweet potatoes look good and I have a bunch more slips to go in the ground.

3 Likes

All my Moschata and Argyrosperma were covered in squash bug eggs before their flowering stages.

I am seeing an interesting possible pattern. I’m seeing signs of squash bug infestation, but no bugs. It is just not normal for only two nymphs to be found on a plant, but that’s what I’m seeing. Lots of eggs, one or two nymphs.

What I’m also seeing is ants on those same plants. Where there are many nymphs, no ants. Where there are no nymphs, or just a few, there are ants.

May be a coincidence.

Additionally, the flax does not appear to be protecting the pumpkins in any way. I’ll try other plants in future years.

No eggs on the moschatas yet.

Still no squash bug eggs on the moschatas. One is starting to bloom. Blooms on the watermelons, flax is fully in bloom. Green beans are starting to bloom. Corn is up and doing great, but one or two are showing signs of nutrient deficiencies.

Unfortunately it looks like all the pumplins are dead. I think it’s the drought more than the squash bugs, since they all died during this 100 degree + heat wave.

I ate my first green bean yesterday and I’m trying to decide if I should let them all go to seed or harvest some to keep production going.

0 water, 0 fertilizer, clay soil.

Beans are about done for the season, I think. Flax is almost dried down. Tomatoes are holding on but two of the Romas have developing fruits.

Watermelons are struggling, but blooming, and apparently not touched by the squash bugs. Some died back in the heat but are coming back from the root.

4 survivors from the melons. Sorghum is doing great, of course. Corn is ok but tasseling at about 3 feet. This is expected. Pumpkins are dead and I watered the last two moschatas. The hope is that they’ll come back from the base and fruit before first frost.

I watered the survivors today, a few ounces each.

I expect that many of these will bounce back once the temperatures start to drop. Tomatoes will (possibly) bloom and fruit until frost.

I think I can do two crops of dry beans, spring and fall. I also think I may be able to do squashes in the fall rather than spring, planting in July or August. We’ll see how that does.

Oats did great as a spring crop, but I’m not sure I want to encourage grasses in this area. I’ll interplant the grains in a different garden area and let them fight it out.

Onions and beets are still alive, but that’s the best that can be said for them. That’s ok, a lot of other stuff didn’t survive at all. I can hope for seeds next spring.

Now that I have my survivors sorted out, I’ll probably water in this area once a week to get as many seeds as possible.

Wood chip area did better, predictably.

I harvested my first tomatoes today, a cherry type. Watermelons and potatoes are thriving.

Cucumbers, not so much. They’re blooming but only a few inches tall. No female blossoms yet.

Much of the dry area will be mowed once I get my mower fixed, both to mulch for the fall crops and to spread the seeds of the flax.

So far, I think a very successful adaptation year.

2 Likes

Thank you for sharing your updates.

I noticed that you mentioned the possibility of focusing your squash planting in the fall. I’m also in 6b and I’ve had more productivity with late plantings.

Can I ask, is there a traditional time in your area for fall planting squash? Here in Eastern Kentucky, some people start direct seeding squash at mother’s day in mid May, and I’ve heard to put out your last squash starts by July 4.

So I’m curious if you have a certain timing you are thinking about for your fall planting.

Considering the heat, and that the squash bugs usually hit early, I was thinking August. I have gotten fruits from late plantings before, so I figured it might work here as well.

This year I’ll plant the replacements in the woodchips so they get consistent water. If that works I’ll try August in the dry garden another year.

1 Like

Thank you. I have been listening to and appreciating that local advice about late squash planting, but I haven’t decided what I think. I would definitely believe an August planting can work, that seems just as plausible to me. I’ll be sure to keep an eye on your posts in case this topic comes up again!

1 Like

The last of the moschatas are dead. I watered everything just a little and will continue to water on a weekly basis in order to get seeds for next year. One of the dryland watermelons has a fruit on it, and I’m seeing female flowers on the corn.

2 Likes