My method is, well . . . pretty slapdash. (Laugh.) I generally remember which plants I want to save seeds from, so I don’t bother to mark them.
If you want to be more organized about it, especially if you share a garden with other people who can’t read your mind, you might use pieces of string or ribbon to tie a little bow around the stems of your favorite fruits (or plants) you want to save seeds from. A lot of people do something along those lines.
I tend to harvest the seeds from each fruit individually and put them into separate bags, with a finicky, detailed description of what I remember about the fruit and the plant it came from. Every squash fruit gets a separate bag.
The next year, when it comes time for planting, I go through all those bags, carefully decide precisely how many seeds I want from each bag, plonk that many into a tupperware, and head out to the garden, where I sow them all randomly. (Laugh.)
That’s when I’m at my most precise. When I don’t feel like being precise at all, I stick all the seeds from fruits I like of a particular species into a mini tupperware together, label it with the species, and stick it in my seed box. When it comes time for planting, I just pull out a handful of seeds and go strew them around randomly.
In more general terms, here’s how I organize my whole seed box.
I have separate large bags for separate growing conditions. Each species gets its own bag inside there. I believe these are all the large bags I have currently:
- Drought tolerant summer annuals.
- Not drought tolerant summer annuals.
- Drought tolerant biennials.
- Not drought tolerant biennials.
- Drought tolerant perennials.
- Not drought tolerant perennials.
- Drought tolerant tropicals.
- Not drought tolerant tropicals.
- Winter annuals.
- Winter perennials. (This is my personal term for a perennial that grows in the winter and is dormant in summer, like garlic or tulips.)
I mostly separate biennials from perennials because I’m pedantic and like using the right words for things.
I don’t care in the slightest if my plants that grow actively during the winter and are either dead or dormant in summer (peas, fava beans, lettuce, garlic, tulips, etc.) are drought tolerant or not, because winter is my rainy season. So I make no distinction there.
I put tropical annuals with summer annuals. The only species I label “tropical” are ones that absolutely have to survive my zone 7b winters in order to give me a harvest. I’m not at all in a tropical climate, but I have a new greenhouse and I’m very optimistic, so . . . (laugh).
I care immensely about the drought tolerance of anything that needs to grow during the summer. My summers are very, very hot and very, very dry, so the only things I consider “drought tolerant” are things that can survive three or four months without being watered at all in 100 degree weather. If it can only survive a week without being watered, pfffffffff, that goes in the “not drought tolerant” bag. This includes all my squashes, even the ones that can survive a whole month without being watered.
I’ve found sorting species by growing conditions is very convenient. That way, if I have an open spot in the garden, I can pull out the relevant bag and look through it for ideas of what would suit that space.
Then I’ll decide how many seeds I want of each species, plonk them all into a tupperware, record the list of everything in that tupperware into a spreadsheet with exactly where I’m going to put them, go outside, and plant them all in that area, with no regard to what species is where in that area.
I’m both extremely precise and extremely messy. Can you tell? 