My 2023 spaghetti zucchini landrace

I’m making my plans for my pepo squash landrace this year. It’s probably going to be . . . a bit nuts. (Wry grin.) I’m going to use this thread to talk about it throughout my 2023 growing season. Also see this thread for the results of my 2022 landrace, and this thread for my plans to keep a separate delicata population in 2023.

My goal is to have bush pepos that don’t mind being crowded, don’t mind being dry farmed in my desert climate, are super productive, are early, have a super long shelf life, are thornless, shrug off powdery mildew, are tasty as summer squash, are tasty as winter squash, and provide a variety of different tasty flavors so that I don’t get tired of eating them. I feel I can be pretty ambitious because I’m about three-quarters of the way there with my spaghetti zucchinis already.

I’m thinking I’ll aim for twenty-four plants. In about two hundred square feet. In lots of heat, with stingy watering. I’m so mean.

This is exactly the same as the growing conditions I gave my spaghetti zucchinis last year, except with deeper mulch and less water, so I expect them to do fine.

I plan to plant three to four times as many seeds as I want plants (so about 75-100 seeds?), and then be selective about which plants get to live.

I do not plan to make the “tough decision” to plant them in clusters of three and thin two out of each cluster, which is what I see most gardening YouTubers doing. Instead, I plan to space the seeds about three to six inches apart and then make the easy decision to pull out anything that’s obviously inferior. Or just let the weak ones die on their own because they can’t handle the competition. That’s what I did last year, and it worked great.

If some spaces wind up overly crowded, cool, I want plants that can deal with it. If some spaces wind up empty, cool, I’ll plant bananas and brassicas there. (See this thread for my little banana obsession.)

Here’s my plan of action to select what will make it to my 2024 population:

  • Before flowering begins: anything with bigger thorns than most of the population gets pulled out.
  • Before flowering begins: anything that’s noticeably weaker and sicker than most of the population gets pulled out.
  • After a third of the plants have set their first fruit: anything that doesn’t have a female flower gets pulled out.
  • For each individual plant thereafter: I’ll leave the first two fruits to grow to maturity and eat the third as a summer squash. If it doesn’t taste good, the plant gets pulled out and its first two fruits eaten.
  • After six months on the shelf: If an individual winter squash has no signs of spoiling and tastes good, its seeds will be set aside to be planted preferentially.
  • After eight or more months on the shelf: Even more so.

I may also preferentially save seeds from things with softer rinds and the shape I prefer (long and thin, which makes it easy to stack on a shelf with less wasted space), but those are both mild preferences. As long as the rind isn’t a pain to cut, I’m okay with the rind being hard. And other shapes are no big deal.

Pepo squashes are known to last only three or four months on the shelf before rotting, but my spaghetti zucchinis (the result of my 2022 landrace) seem to have a shelf life of at least eight months, and possibly a lot more – there are some on my shelf that have been sitting there for ten months, and still look good. In fact, not one has rotted so far.

So I won’t accept anything in my pepo landrace unless it has a shelf life of at least six months. I may make an exception for something with a spectacular flavor that’s unlike anything else I’ve grown, but even then, it would probably get its male flowers removed in 2024, in order to force it to cross with plants that make fruits with better shelf lives.

My current plan is to include the following in my landrace:

  • My spaghetti zucchinis from 2022.
  • Lauren’s zucchinis that are used to being dry farmed here in Utah.
  • Spineless Perfection (for the 100% thornlessness and powdery mildew resistance).
  • Desi (for being really early to fruit).
  • Ronde de Nice (for the flavor).
  • Buffalo Bird Woman landrace (because it looks awesome).

Bonus Secondary Landrace!

I have about two dozen other varieties I want to try out, but I’m not sure if they will earn their place in my landrace. So I’m thinking I’ll plant a second wave of pepos a month after the first wave.

They won’t need to be separated by space, because they’ll be separated by time – all the fruits I’ll be saving seeds from in the first wave will already be on the plants before the second wave starts flowering. I’ll let them cross among themselves and also get pollen from the first wave, and I’ll select their population in the same manner. Anything good that comes out of it will earn its place in my 2024 landrace.

I may do this with all new varieties I want to test out in the future. I have around 150-180 frost free days, so it seems like a simple way to make sure only good things get added to my landrace, while also trying lots of new things and allowing the best ones to stay.

4 Likes

Looking forward to following this. Take lots of pics.

Thanks for such a detailed plan of action. I’m planning to start a zucchini landrace this year focusing on cocozelle and kousa varieties (they both have that rich, nutty taste that I like). I’m aiming only for summer squash so my criteria are somewhat different from yours - also I’m looking for resistance to all the various pests that afflict squashes in my usually wet climate. But I really like your overplanting/ staged selection approach, and will try to adapt this to my goals. Good luck with your Year 2!

Cool! Yeah, it occurred to me while I was making my plans that I could plant them a month apart and therefore easily keep the cream of the crop separate if I want to. And I thought, “Ooh, that makes things super easy!”

I bet a lot of landraces could be organized that way. It may be a great way to have your cake, and eat it too.

1 Like

Some Saturday eye candy for Emily! Who sent me some of the Spaghetti x zucchini seeds, I planted a couple in a greenhouse, and here they are thriving (green circle) next to another zucchini struggling (red). They seem the most vigorous out of all the squash in there.

2 Likes

Any blossoms yet?

Not yet

Emily, it just occurred to me that I’m sort-of following your pattern, on accident.

The spagx went in early and are just starting to bloom. All the other pepos came up within the last few weeks. I was going to cull the acorn squash because I don’t want it in my spagx population, but it looks like I won’t have to!

If I don’t keep seeds from the second wave, problem solved!

Oh, cool! I hope that works!

I’m delighted that the spaghetti zucchinis are so vigorous. More evidence that I seem to have stumbled upon some great genetics that I’m happy I kept. :smiley:

I still haven’t planted any of my cucurbit beds yet. I have to finish preparing them. I think I’ll prepare the beds for the melons and plant them first, then prepare the beds for the squashes and plant them. The weather has been cool enough that they would probably all be small now anyway, even if I’d planted them two months ago like I’d planned – the maxima squash I planted two months ago has two true leaves on it right now, to give you an idea. Yeesh.

I pulled that spaghetti-zucchini plant in my greenhouse today, for being too vigourous and taking over! It gave me plenty of tasty food, and now my outside plants are producing, so it was time to give the melons and tomatoes around it more sunshine. But literally, no other squash plant got as giant or tried to dominate like that one. I had to keep cutting it back.

Flavor was delicious. I had only a golden zucchini to compare it to, so in another week I’ll get to compare this one to the immature maximas which are really tasty to me.

Wow, that’s amazing! I’m thrilled to hear it was such a good plant!

How did your season turn out? The tatume mixes are great.

Sadly, I planted the seeds under deep autumn leaf mulch, and they kept on getting eaten by roly polies. I didn’t figure out that was the problem until late August. So that’s when I planted seeds that actually survived to make fruits! Super late in the season. So I decided, “Well, I’m clearly going to be selecting for early fruiting this year!”

I had five plants that survived to make fruits. Two of them were just generic yellow squash things – I think they may have crossed with the Early Prolific Straightneck or the Butterneck zucchini plants from last year. They were good, but not great, and not very vigorous.

The three really good plants didn’t make mature squashes, but they did make pretty big immature squashes, so I’ve kept the first from each of those inside, and I’m hoping to open them in a few months. If all goes well, they’ll have mature seeds by then.

Two of those made more than one fruit before frost, and they were nice summer squashes. The most vigorous plant made fruits that looked like Cocozelle (it may have been a purebreed Cocozelle, since I threw some of those seeds into the mix); the second most vigorous looked like a tatume, except with smaller thorns and a bush form, so it was probably a tatume spaghetti zucchini.

The third most vigorous plant only grew one fruit, but it was a big one. I harvested it right before frost, and I haven’t tasted it yet, since I want it to finish maturing its seeds first. It was definitely a spaghetti zucchini (it sprouted in an area where I only sowed spaghetti zucchinis), possibly crossed with Early Prolific Straightneck last year. The rind was yellow even while immature, and it was a bit lumpy. Because it probably has Early Prolific Straightneck genes, and I was very unimpressed with that variety last year, I’m unsure if I’ll like it, but I’ll give it a try.