I have started a project working towards a Moringa variety adapted to colder and/or wetter environments.
I have started with an uncommon variety called “stx-1” because it was claimed to be able to handle cooler wetter conditions. It did well.
I had it growing in pots and was trying to leave it outside until the first frost and planned to pull it inside when it had gone dormant. The problem was it pushed through and bounced back and just would not go dormant! Eventually, it did after a good freeze or two.
I left them out so long I did not expect most to come back in the spring.
They all survived.
So I have expanded the number of trees. I now have about 10 new seedlings planted in ground. I still have the old ones in pots. I’m hoping to get flowers and seeds from the older ones this year.
I have done a lot of research on different Moringa varieties, and also different species. (I am working with Moringa oleifera) There is not much information relating to cold or frost tolerance.
Is anyone else working with Moringa as a perennial in colder climates?
Are there any other varieties or landraces known for growing in cold and wet conditions?
THIS IS INCREDIBLE!!! How Cold was your winter, USDA Hardiness zone? Where did you place the pots? Did you use a Concrete Wall to protect against harsh winds but also to heat up soil faster? I’m working on Moringa as well. There are 2 Approaches for growing Moringa in colder climates
Perennial roots, Winter Top Growth dies back. Heavy Mulching would help!
Growing Moringa as an annual. If we can get Moringa days to seed maturity low enough, perhaps we can breed it as an annual.
BONUS, Using Moringa Cuttings & Grafting them next year to speed up Seed Formation.
I found Moringa Seeds for $1.99 at the Indian Grocery Store. They taste great & I’ve planted lots of them in my Guerrilla Gardens. I’m Not sure what’s their specific cold hardiness but the species is USDA Hardiness zone 10-12. Mature Trees can handle light frosts.
I am going the perennial route. The variety I have puts more energy into leaf growth and less into seed production. It also is supposed have a longer average lifespan, around 30 years if I remember correctly.
My hardiness zone is 8a. But I did pull the pots into the garage last year at probably around 28°F. I am considering leaving them out all winter this year or maybe only pull them in at an even lower temp.
The pots were on a concrete driveway, semi-protected, with full southern exposure.
From what I have found it seems like the main Moringa industry and breeding is in India.
I looked into Moringa stenopetala but found conflicting information on cold tolerance and also had concerns for how it would handle a wet winter.
Interesting, I’d only risk putting them in ground if you have plenty of cuttings to test it with or if you have lots of seed.
I’m wondering how Pruning can put the tree in the correct hormonal balance for seed production.
Well hopefully we can get some Moringa Researchers from India to obtain Diverse seeds form! But are Grocery Store Moringa seeds diverse enough?
I have not had much luck with Moringa cuttings yet.
If I had more space I would get as many seeds from as many different sources and just put them all out and see what happens.
The first is all new growth from this year. Second is after pruning. The large tan colored stem is what survived above “ground” from the largest tree last year. That little trunk is almost 1 inch diameter and where the new growth at the top is about 6 inches up.
Very Nice Mulch system, you’ve got an excellent set up. So basically if somewhat winter protected, the trunk can survive?
Thank you for the great Variety List!
Interesting, I seen David the Good do the packing leaves to save them from winter trick. If they regrow from roots every year with thick mulch, that’s still a win even if they don’t produce seeds, but that also means no breeding work. wait Moringa pushes through 8 inches of Mulch!?
I’m wondering why it hasn’t made flowers/seeds yet? Doesn’t the root system have all the resources it needs by now? I’m wondering if it’s a hormonal balance issue where Summer Pruning can help shift the hormonal balance from leaves to flowers/seeds? It works on figs & other fruit trees so why can’t it work on Moringa?
Yes I was not actually trying to protect the trunk so I think if I had wrapped or covered it there would have been much less damage. I am really impressed with them so far.
Apparently Moringa oleifera (Right Photo) doesn’t do Cotyledons above ground, Moringa stenopetala (Left Photo) does. Looks like we got a Lima Bean vs Vulgaris bean cotyledon situation here too.
I have a feeling you will because it does take about 2 years to form flowers & Seeds. It Roughly takes about 8 months for fruits to form & in some places they fruit twice per year. If anything you can always graft the Mature wood on Vigorous young trees to see if that will help.
I was trying to grow moringa oleifera last year (z 5b). Had about a 4" tall plant, but then it got sad and died. Though I’m in a warm climate for the rest of this year (OK panhandle) so I’m tempted to try to grow it again.
How drought tolerant have you found it to be where you are?
It would be very interesting to see if they would cross pollinate. There could also be benefits from grafting one onto the other.
I did originally order from that source, but then I found the original grower on ebay and have bought everything I have surviving from them. I figure they probably have more genetic diversity in the original population and the cost was cheaper since they are in TX vs Hawaii.
