Dry Planting

My “main” garden was entirely dry this year, in a manner of speaking.

We didn’t get as much water in winter and spring as is normal for this area, but more than I am used to.

It’s raining right now, which reminded me.

I had woodchips brought in over the winter, and planted mostly on the edges of the woodchips. I did not use culinary water for the garden.

Watermelons thrived, as expected. 0 culinary water use. 30 seeds planted. 19 came up. 9 produced melons. Some of those melons are obviously better suited to a drier environment, as the plants died during or shortly after rainstorms, when the soil was waterlogged.

3 plants survived the heat and started producing again, but none with time to ripen. Possibly two crops, and keep the shorter season plants for the fall?

The zucchetti population was at the other end of the woodchip piles. I have no idea how many I planted, but I ended up with maybe half a dozen plants that really thrived and produced. Again, 0 culinary water use.

All the zucchetti plants that survived were vining forms. I ignored the squash bugs. One plant got what I thought was bacterial wilt, but it ended up being one of the strongest producers and survived to the end of the season. Other plants got infected toward the end, but they weren’t my first choice for seed production.

I kept the fruit of 3 plants for seed production. This was 1 tatume cross and two zucchini crosses. Highest production, strong vines, not affected by squash bugs.

As before, none of the pure spaghetti squash lived to produce seed. The pumpetti are segregating toward small, thin shelled fruits so I didn’t keep any of them.

Plants got infected with vine borers toward the end of the season, after the major production window, so I pulled the plants.

Sweet potatoes were also spaced along the woodchip edge and not watered otherwise. The primary purpose of the sweet potatoes is to fix the heavy clay soil.

We didn’t get a huge amount of green, but enough. I checked each plant and left most of the tubers in the soil. Many had grown out toward the woodchips, where most of the water would have been, but there’s enough in the soil to indicate that my technique may work. I harvested enough sweet potatoes to make slips for next year.

I planted canteloupe in another area, with just a thin layer of woodchips. No culinary water. Four plants produced, including one that had amazing aroma when ripe, but the taste was normal cantaloupe.

As before, a major disadvantage of growing dry is that the plants will focus on a few seeds. Many of the squash seeds look full, but dry empty.

Watermelons will instead cannabilize the majority of seed formation and only produce the seeds they can fully ripen. So you may get a cantaloupe or a zucchini that had has lots of amazing looking seeds but most dry flat, while you open up a watermelon and it looks nearly seedless, but those few seeds are fully ripe.

Tomatoes didn’t do well until after the heat passed, but now they’re loaded with green fruit. Until I get the soil fixed, they’re nice to have but not a priority.

Anything I planted straight into the grass, without benefit of woodchips, didn’t produce.

Progress is being made and there will be more progress next year.

3 Likes

It always amazes me how big difference the type of soil can make. I’m on 97% sand, so it has never, ever been waterlogged, so reading that your watermelon died after a heavy rainstorm is like a story from the outer world :wink: On the other hand, there are also similarities. Here, nothing planted straight into the grass produces, and woodchips do wonders as well. In general, mulching is the best strategy for mostly everything.

1 Like

Until this year I have always grown in sand, so I understand how bizarre that is. I have had trees die as well, for the same reason. Just odd.

I don’t think it’s not that they did not have time to ripen more seeds as the seeds are formed about the same time so concentrating on one over other doesn’t help other than saving energy. I have had them abort seeds even if they ripened on time. So it’s likely that there are many reasons where results are similar. Some kinda stress event situation definetely seems possible. If they are really stressed by dry then they usually have smaller fruits and it would make sense that some save from making full seedload to have enough energy to make some. I think it might also be genetic as seedless watermelon are F1 varieties and if I remember correctly they also make some small shells. So it might be some form of partial seedlessness where some of the genes for it are present, but not enough to make fully seedless. Personally I have had fully seeded from plants that struggled to produce small fruit on time and mostly seedless from plant that produced nice fruit in good time.

Experience I’ve had with rain and waterlogging suggest that there are also some other factors at play. Late season in august/early september rains show in plants more the later it is. Strange thing is that one year there was really a flood in july where only very tops of the bed were above water for days. Result was no effect on watermelons and melons other than yellowing of the leaves even though cold and wet lasted for about two weeks. They did stop flowering for the time as it was too cool for that, but for some reason nothing serious happend. Fruits that had started forming before grew and ripened normally. Late season effect comes with less rain and paths aren’t even wet more than little while. I’m thinking it might be compination of colder nights at the time and/or funcal/bacterial infections that flare up when conditions are right. Varieties might help were the treshold might be but it might not be just tolerance to waterlogging, but cooler temperatures as well.

I didn’t say anything about short season or not having enough time to ripen, so I’m not sure what point you’re trying to make. The season here is actually much longer than I’m used to.

As mentioned in the title and the post, this is about the results of dry planting. I have been growing dry for close to ten years, growing identical varieties under dry and normal garden conditions. For the most part these are my own saved seeds, adapted to my previous location.

I know how plants tend to react under those different conditions, and in the post above I speak from my own experience. It has nothing to do with planting different varieties, and I have never in my life grown a seedless watermelon.

The effects of water-logging are more complex, and something I have not yet had a chance to study in depth. The fact remains, as mentioned above, that the plants in question were perfectly healthy, got waterlogged, and died within a day.

You did say that you think that they only form seeds that they can fully ripen and you mentioned fruits that did not have time to ripen so I assumed they were connected. They atleast wouldn’t choose seeds they have time to ripen, but maybe they limits seeds they don’t have energy to ripen. That would be determined right at the start of fruit formation.

You wouldn’t need to grow seedless watermelon to get seedlessness traits. Seedless watermelon are F1s of certain staple varieties that have the right genes so that their combination will be seedless. If you have the right genes in your population you might get some of that effect, but not fully seedless as those would need exactly right combination. As I said, it might be combination of both genetic and enviromental conditions, but based on what I have seen I don’t think just enviromental conditions could explain it. Personally I think it’s a good trait in watermelons to have moderate amount of fully developed seeds rather than +500 and I try to see if i can push them towards that.