Landraces Garden in Switzerland 2026

I plan to document my whole garden in here and just crosspost the relevant info to the Focus crops threads. This year I have the following main landrace projects, the project that are also a focus crop are bolded:

  • Continuing my Maxima landrace, with my seed from the last years, some contributions by @Hugo and some seed I bought or exchanged
  • Testing polepeans (which varieties fit my conditions?), sowing some alleged crosses
  • Testing Tomato varieties (which fit my conditions?), sowing crossed seed from @JesseI, possibly some hand-pollinations (if I have time, a pretty big if, to be honest)
  • Participating with Favas in the Focus crop, testing three different sources/ varieties of Fava seed

Also Landrace projects, but more side character:

Additionally, I plan to post many pictures here and ask many questions, just like a garden Diary has to be.

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Documenting my tomatoes:

On the 22.3 i sowed my tomatoes. I used a mix of commercial soil and volehill-soil. I did not presoak the seeds because of time constraints. I sowed them in two flats with 28 cells each so, 56 cells in total.

I sowed the following:

  • Meat tomato seeds I saved myself in 2024, 7 cells
  • Seed mix of heart and egg shaped tomatoes + black cherry I saved myself in 2024, 7 cells
  • Domestic hybrid swarm F2 and F3 2024 by @JesseI, 7 cells
  • Lycopersicum x cheesmaniae F2 by Jesse, 7 cells
  • Travellers tomato I got at ZMAG from Petra, 7 cells, some sources say that that this may have a somewhat ouctrossing flower structure…
  • Assumptas Wintertomate and Black Egg (probably old seed), both said to “be in danger of out-crossing”, which to us is not a danger but a chance, 4 cells each
  • Thomas Green, 4 cells each, old seed
  • Tigerella, Anastasia, and Buschtomato (determinate tomato) Mondstein, 3 cells each. This was really old seed I just wanted to be rid of, to be honest.

I put them in front of my window and on the 28.3 many seeds had already sprouted. There seems to be no difference in germination speed between the different seeds apart from the old seed, which germinated hesistantly, but what can you expect, this seed is from 2020!

The newer seed came up very well, even though I have no supplemental heat, my house is between 18 and 20 °C. The next challenge for the seeds will be the low linght conditions. I have no grow lights, just the window. I rotate the flats daily, because the plants grow strongly in the direction of the window.

Question: How long should I wait to cull? In each cell i can cull the stragglers that germinate later than the rest, this I can do already now. But between the other plants I see no differences right now. Do I wait for the first true leaves and cull all plants than take longer to make first true leaves?

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On the 20 of May, I planted out my tomatoes.

This is the first year where we don’t keep the tomatoes in pots. Instead we made a Hügelbett against the south side of our cow stable, where the squashes were next year, but directly against the stable wall (It is concrete for the first 2 Meters, so should be no problem). I made a long heap of tree prunings, then we heaped manure on top during the winter and in spring, we collected the soil of mole and volehills all over our land and put it on top of the manure. I installed drip irrigation, since no rain reaches this location.

Since we don’t have to water the plants by hand, we can afford to have many more plants. I know that many people on this forum propably think: “Whaaaaaaat, drip irrigation. Is she crazy? Does she want to coddle her tomatoes? What about adaptation? What about low tech?”

Well yes, these are all noble goals. But I also want some tomatoes to eat. And I hope that this system is enough improvement on our previous system (if you can even call it that), so we get some tomatoes. And we still have high humidity, cold nights and the possibility of unfriendly weather in summer, so I believe there is still plenty of selection pressure on the plants.

Additionally, since tomatoes grew so badly all these years (in the pots) it was not possible to document which plants were a little better, since all were so bad. For example, a black krim tomato made not more that 2 fruit all summer. I believe one problem was probably the nutrient situation in the pots.

But now the roots have more space, and a better nutrient situation with less work for us during the summer. Therefore I hope to see differences in vigour between the varieties (or sources) I have AND have time to document it. I am not at home right now, but I have definitely seen already quite a difference in growth habit and vigour between the plants.

Additionally, I planted one pole each of:

  • Xaver, a old variety from Liechtenstein (testing)
  • a variety I got from an italian aquaintance (testing)
  • Dasinger Blaue
  • Fasoi grisoni
  • potential cross Fasoi-Dasinger
  • the Amish gnuttle lookalike that appeared in my seed

The potential crosses will be almost all kept for seed, the other poles are also for eating green. Additionally, I still have seed from the potential crosses for next year, since I don’t hvae capacity (mainly the room) for many polebeans thhis year)

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This spring was brutal for pole beans, many plants were eaten to the ground. The pole of the Amish gnuttle look alike was eated to the ground by snails. Luckily I have enough seeds to try again next year, maybe protect them more.

The tomatoes are thriving. Last week I made some notes and photos ( I did not have time to look at all the varieties)

  • Black egg: Scraggly plant, closed flower structure. Nothing promiscous about it. Unless the tomato is very good, these are not keepers
  • Assumptas Wintertomate: very vigorous, strong leaves, has already set the first fruit, so very early. Flowers don’t look promiscous to me?
  • Tigerella: Somewhat scraggly, only few flowers
  • Buschtomate Mondstein: Very strong, sturdy stem
  • Thomas green

Cheesmaniae crosses by Jesse: No promiscous flowers, all very vigorous growing. All the plants on the right of the row thar allowed to sprawl all over are the Cheesmaniae crosses. Beautful plants

  • Domestic crosses jesse: There are some remarkable plants

1. Plant in its row: promiscous flowers

A plant in the middle of the row:

Next to it:

A very bushy plant:

I wouldn’t expect promiscous flowers on crosses that are 50% cheesmaniea or pimpinellifolium, at least in the first few generations. To me there seems to be 2 ways to have promiscous flowers. First is to have long stigma like in exserted orange, which seems quite rare and I’m not sure how easy it is to stabilize in promiscous population. In any case, I didn’t have many varieties that had the trait when I started so I don’t expect to find it much. Second is those exploded flowers like in your pictures. They are related to bigger, mostly (?) beefsteak type fruits. As those wilds seem very dominant in the small fruits, the flowers aren’t promiscous at least in the early generations. I had slightly increased fruit size in the F3 generation (which might be what you have also), but still fairly small fruits and so not really promiscous flowers either. Both cheesmanie and pimpinellifolium crosses seem overall more vigorous than domestic. 50% habrochaites seem to have some with big fruits and promiscous flowers even in F2 generation, and as my plan is to merge those 3 populations, I would expect there to be some promiscous on the population that has all those wild species. I have first grow-out of that cross population, but haven’t really paid much attention to flowers. Right now more important trait is that they flower early as habrochaites tends to have slightly later flowering and some seem to have inherited that trait. Have to check the flowers just out of interest, but that I’m going to select for only in the later generations.

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