MuskMelons- 2024 Grow Reports

How are your melons growing this year, and what are your challenges and goals?
How was germination of the GTS mix?

What does diversity look like in your seedlings, have you noticed differences?

You can post your observations here through the growing season, special bonus for stories and photos of overcoming challenges.
Feel free to add photos to our photo album.

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I live somewhere that ‘melons do not grow’.
So my goal for a couple of years has been cold summer temperature tolerance. See thread here

This year it warmed up enough to plant on May 25th (last year was June 5th).

I have plenty of seeds luckily, so I sowed densely. Especially if you’re short on space or have a challenging melon growing area, consider doing the same-- plant 5 seeds for every plant you want to keep eventually.

Many of these seeds are descended from work that Joseph Lofthouse did to adapt melons to his high desert climate. This made them very early compared to other varieties.

The ‘Polar Mix’ melons were then grown on the Northern CA coastal bluffs for two years, allowing selection for high tolerance to windy and foggy summers.

If you haven’t planted yet:
We encourage you to direct sow these half an inch deep in your garden, as cucurbits don’t always thrive after being transplanted, and grow quickly.

Choose a spot with full sun, in soil that has been worked, ideally a raised bed (warmer soil). If you plant them too early, they will fail to germinate in cold soil. Keep moist but don’t overwater, as waterlogged soil will be colder and reduce early seedling vigor. As soon as seeds have emerged, reduce water to allow soil to warm up.

I will write the next section about thinning next week-- I’m short on melon seedling photos to include in my melon email to everybody, so if you have some to share/use, very much appreciated.

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I have a mix of GTS 2024, commercial and trades with GTS members.

8a/8b. First round in April mostly wiped out by late freeze/false spring. Second round in March most are small and not putting on a lot of growth. I have one that has put on healthy grown and a second that has huge amounts of healthy growth and already has two fruits growing and a large amount of open flowers.

There is some indirect insect pressure as the squash are the current magnets for heavy insect pressure in the garden.

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Thanks for this Julia! Its very helpful. I haven’t yet planted my musk melon seeds because I wasn’t sure what would be best for them. This helps boost the confidence level to get them in sooner than later.

I just hope that the thousands of slugs im dealing with don’t eradicate every single one…

My melon seedlings (GTS mix + various other sources) are quite variable in size and colour.

I start my seedlings in airpruning trays because it works a gazillion times better for me. I’ve been starting melons early and often - we had a very early spring, so the first batch went out 3 weeks before our usual last frost date.

Many (although not all) my melon seedlings have suffered from some severe pest pressure - I think the early spring messed up population balances. Also possibly the cooler temps made the melons more susceptible to pest pressure, but oddly it’s some of the specifically “cold tolerant” varieties that fared worst. The healthiest of the first melon batch are starting to form flower buds now.

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Transplanted out today!

Here’s my next installment for the 2024 melons. Love to include any of your photos or experiences before sending it out to all the people who ordered seeds.

For those of you in warmer climates, you may already see melons developing, and for those of us with short seasons or cold summers, we are looking at seedlings. If you got poor germination or heavy pest pressure and planted before mid or late May, consider planting later next year. Melons love warm temperatures and are very sensitive to cold (much more sensitive than corn, beans and squash).

Celebrating strong seedlings: By now you might be noticing the variation in your seedlings. Some probably didn’t germinate at all, or days later than others. Some might look generally yellow or have yellow leaf tips, or have holes in the leaves from bugs or snails. Some seedlings are able to produce more of the magical compounds that keep bugs and slugs from devouring them. Let’s celebrate those seedlings (and share photos!)

From the article ‘Modern Seeds aren’t ready for climate change’: “…crop plants have evolved alongside microbial and animal species to tolerate a wide range of environments. For example, many plants produce compounds that attract local insects to prey on the plant’s parasites. In other words, says Chen, they’ve evolved a trait to “call in bodyguards.” But plants from mass-produced seed haven’t retained this trait, which they don’t need with “constant support from pesticides,” Chen says. Having lost this ancient connection to their environment, plants don’t issue that call for help: “formal seed system crops have been selected to be mute.”

Good flavor news: Seedlings that have more resistance to pests and other stresses now (by producing more antioxidants and other natural chemicals) may be more likely to have more flavor in their fruit. [Study on tomatoes.]

If your seedlings aren’t touching yet, or it isn’t apparent which ones are happier in your garden, you can wait. Maybe you won’t need to thin them at all.

Diverse melon seedlings that should be thinned.


Thinned seedlings, spaced about 6” apart. They will be thinned again in a few weeks or when the leaves start touching.

If you have enough seeds and seedlings, I recommend thinning every couple of weeks or months, because if you’re in a challenging growing environment, you don’t know now which melon plants will thrive despite whatever is coming next. For example, I have cool nights, and will remove about half of the plants that flower but don’t start producing melons, and still have good coverage at the end of the season. By planting extra seeds and succession thinning, you’re more likely to get a good yield in the space that you have (no bare spots).

Reminder: You don’t have to remove seedlings! You may have reasons to keep them all, and if they aren’t crowding each other, there’s no reason to. Yellow seedlings now may turn a corner and get healthy. If you have gaps, you can also move crowded seedlings to those areas.

Diversity helps ensure that at least some of your melons will thrive despite cool/dry/hot, pests or less fertile soil conditions. Early risers who survive the initial challenges of the season may have valuable traits worth saving seeds from, such as resilience to early-season pests or diseases, stronger, more vigorous root systems, or the ability to associate with more beneficial bacteria or mycorrhizal fungi in the soil.

Outsmarting Pests and Disease: Adaptation gardening encourages us to use natural strategies to combat pests and diseases. One effective method is succession planting. If your melon seedlings fall victim to pests or cold soils, don’t despair— plant more seeds! This will ensure a continuous supply of seedlings that will have varying levels of exposure to pests and diseases, increasing the chances that some will survive.

We’d love to hear from you! Did your melons succeed or fail in a challenging environment? Share photos or write us back to share your story in the next melon newsletter. Your contributions and observations are valuable as we continue to adapt our seed varieties and adaptation experiences together.

Share your photos here (shared album below).

Happy Growing!

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My observations regarding my musk melons (zone 6, clay soil, keep weed barrier on soil until seeding, no compost or anything added, no watering):

  • Polar Express musk melons (cold-hardy) planted 2 months before expected last frost are the same size as the ones planted 6 days before expected last frost.
  • first seeding round after frost was complete failure, originally thought it was due to the vole pressure, until I realized all those birds watching me from different perches across the garden weren’t just watching me, which let me to:
  • next couple of rounds, I created sunken areas with my hoe (1 foot wide, 3 foot long, 1/2 inch to 1 inch deep) for my seeds, after seeding, loosely covered it up with some vegetation so it would be harder for the birds to find (making it a sunken area will hopefully help retain moisture longer during hot summers). A lot of the seeds have sprouted/not been eaten so will be using the “sunken beds” method with any spring plantings going forward.

Maarten

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The one and only melon that decided to grow while the rest of the mix decided not to.

It’s a Tuscan style ribbed melon with some netting, a cantaloupe style interior. Yellow when ripe, this one fell off the vine when moved so I brought it inside.

Seeds saved.

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Im in zone 5 and planted both GTS muskmelon mixes and mixed in a few other varietys. I direct seeded them 2 weeks before the last frost and planted some in trays to replace the ones that the slugs eat which was a bunch! There was a light frost one morning but they all made it through and I now have around 40 healthy looking plants

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Most are vining out flowering and looking happy and a few are just getting there second set of leaves

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some pretty cool looking melons!

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My GTS muskmelons are getting absolutely toasted in the afternoons on this concrete slab, but they all have at least one melon on them!
(Zone 10a)



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It’s been a cold summer in the Catskills of NY but one single melon made it. It got ripe enough for the chipmunks to get into it before I found it. You can imagine how I feel about the seeds in this melon❤️can’t wait to give them a go next year!


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My GTS muskmelon “Delicious Mix” did really well this very hot summer in Boise, Idaho (Zone 7a). I planted three pots, about 3 seeds each, outside in a cold frame in late April/early May. Something ate all 3 seeds in one pot, so I had just two pots, with a couple plants each that I transplanted the last week of May. They grew well, and only one vine succumbed to the squash bug onslaught that took out all my moschata and figleaf squash. I got 5 or 6 melons total. The earliest couple were ripe in early August, and tasted OK. Here’s the first one that ripened:


The best were not ripe till early September, and they lived up to their “Delicious Mix” name!


I also got one very interesting looking melon:


It tasted a bit like a honeydew.

I saved all the seeds, and will share some back to GTS. These were really good and fun to grow! I’m keeping the early-ripening and this “fun” one separate from the best tasting ones, and will be sure to plant some of each next year, and will hope they’ll combine the early and good tasting traits.

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That last “fun” one is Kajari melon.

Kajari melons are a type of heirloom melon with green stripes that turn persimmon as they ripen.

The stripes on a Kajari melon change as it matures, from green to burnt orange and cream.

When ripe, the melon is ready to harvest when:

  • The tendril has started to shrivel
  • The fruit weighs about 2 lbs
  • The fruit has changed color and is orange and tan
  • 80 growing days have passed
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OK, thanks @peterd for that info, it’s good to know. It came in with the GTS “Delicious Mix” muskmelon seeds. Sounds like it could have had just a bit longer to reach maturity. When we ate it the flesh was just a bit firmer than a fully ripe cantaloupe or honeydew, but not as firm as those often are in the grocery store. It came off the vine easily when I slightly pulled on it, but from what you’re saying about the color, maybe I could have waited another few days. I didn’t keep the seeds separate from the other melons, though, so it could show up in the mix I send back to GTS. :grinning:

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Definitely too early. When ripe it will be soft. The flavor will be a combination between honeydew and cantaloupe and it will be sweet.