Northernizing Every Flint Corn

2022-06-01T07:00:00Z

I’m working with just under half an acre up here. Gaspe flint corn matures reliably here and I am also completely in love with it, so I want to spread its genes and incorporate it into many mixes. I also want to keep a pool of it pure.

Because gaspe is so early and I’m not sure when it pollinates compared to the other northern corns I’ve collected, I’ve decided to take a pretty structured approach to creating my F1 seed. I’m going to plant a patch of it once a week from early June through the first weekend in July, or maybe a couple patches. The first one will likely tassel too early to cross with anything and I can use that for my pure seed.

The ensuing patches will probably overlap with some or all of my other flint corns. I’ll plant these other flint corns in their own patches, which can serve as a variety trial, and they can then serve as pollen parents for the gaspe patches. I’ll transfer their pollen to the gaspe, which I know will ripen, and I’ll then have definitely-crossed, definitely-ripening (as definitely as gardens are in this climate!) seed from diverse parents with gaspe mothers.

I’ll also transfer gaspe pollen to the flint mothers, but it’s a bit of a gamble if any/all of them will ripen. I won’t detassel them or anything, so I should get a mix of things-which-ripen-here-self-pollinated, things-which-ripen-here-with-gaspe-fathers, and things-which-ripen-here-crossed-with-whatever-blew-in-on-them.

I’ll also have some information on which additional flints ripen here, and what percentage of those tended to ripen here.

Then next year I can mix all the F1s as desired.

Planting will begin in roughly a week, around June 1st. I’ve been sorting through my seeds and have the following flints/dents:

Cascade Ruby Gold (didn’t grow last year, might have been a microsite and water issue) from Adaptive
Saskatoon White from Adaptive
Atomic orange - a mix from Julia and Baker Creek
Assiniboine flint from Heritage Harvest (these kernels look realy floury)
New York Red flint from Great Lakes Staple Seeds
Saskatchewan Rainbow flint from Heritage Harvest
Floriani from Annapolis seeds AND from Great Lakes Staple Seeds
Homestead Yellow flint from Great Lakes Staple Seeds
Mountain Morado from Siskyou Seeds

Oaxacan Green dent from Yonder Hill (this is so beautiful I may bag a couple ears just to keep as is, wow)
Early Riser dent from Yonder Hill

I also have a more conservative flour corn project going on and may incorporate some painted mountain seed into a patch of gaspe, seperately labelled. Can anyone resist playing with painted mountain?

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Greenie/Erin DeS
Julia’s atomic orange corn that she sent me came with some bonus diversity, including some beautiful lavenders. I wonder how the genetics for that works, how do you get a lavender seed out of orange mother plants?

Julia Dakin
well… maybe you don’t :slight_smile: There were some light colored kernels and reds plus the oranges, but the lavender comes from a few Mandan Parching lavender that also matured a few cobs and I mixed them in Mandan Parching Lavender Corn (Organic) - Adaptive Seeds

Greenie/Erin DeS
Aha, that explains that! I tried mandan parching lavender last year (from adaptive!) and it tillered like mad and didn’t ripen enough, but passed a tiny tiny bit of pollen into my magic manna beside it. This year I’m going to try again and make sure it’s in full sun, it had a touch of an east/light morning shade last year. Was yours also very short and tillery?

Greenie/Erin DeS
I would enjoy some sort of in-depth resource about corn colours. We got that overview on the endosperm, aleurone, and pericarp but I still don’t fully understand how that that impacts the different colours and how patterns are inherited. I think there was some in one of Carol Deppe’s books, but not about patterning.

Mark Reed
The pericarp is maternal tissue, so it is the same an all kernels of all ears of a plant. It is variable to some degree because of transposons, or jumping genes but you will have to ask Carol or maybe Joseph for more in-depth explanation of that. I have not observed it myself except with pericarp exhibiting the chin mark pattern.

Chinmark is the little streaks of color that some kernels have. Chin marking is the only pericarp pattern that I am aware of and a chinmark ear very often has some variation in the pericarp. They all have the chinmark it is just more pronounced on some kernels than others. Look up some images of Carol’s Starburst Manna to see what it looks like.

Endosperm with perhaps some possible exceptions, again you’ll need to ask Joseph about the exceptions, is pretty much always some shade of yellow, or white.

Aleurone is where all the different shades of blue, purple, and sometimes pink-ish shows up. Like endosperm it is influenced by both the mother and father and in my experience is all kinds of variable and unpredictable. Since it is influenced by both parents its variability shows up on different kernels of the same ear. Or, especially if it was selected for that one possible variation might be uniformity on the same ear.

Now it gets even more fun. Pericarp, whatever color it is can be completely transparent, translucent or completely opaque. I’m fairly sure aleurone can be also.

Think of a modern bi-color sweet corn. Endosperm is variable, pericarp and aleurone are colorless and transparent so you get white/yellow ears. Now leave the pericarp colorless but add in a uniform light blue aleurone and all of a sudden you got a green (blue over yellow) / blue (blue over white) and your white/yellow bicolor is now a green/blue bicolor. Or leave the aleurone colorless but add a light red transparent pericarp, poof a light red (over white) / darker red (over yellow) bicolor.

In my experience, when the aleurone gets all mixed up, as it will anytime you plant seeds from an ear with more than two distinct colors all bets are off on what you will get as far as color.

I like the looks of Carol’s Manna and Cascade corns and want mine to be that way too, so I select strongly against color in the aleurone.

Greenie/Erin DeS
Thank you so much for all this! The kernels I picked out were: white or yellow with blue speckles, white with a big blue eagle, various reds, oranges, and deep reds with starburst patterns. Are those all the same, chinmark on the pericarp? Are they all different alleles on the same gene, or are they stackable?

Magic manna grew ok for me but starburst manna grew spectacularly, I have a bunch of it and am looking forward to what it does this year. It really is gorgeous.

Does this mean if the endosperm was yellow & white, the aleurone was blue, and the pericarp had a dark chinmark on it, one could have green & blue bicolour with dark starbursts or spots on them? Oh my.

Very curious to see what comes out of all this. I did pull out those 80 favourites from painted mountain the other day to mix into Morden-- morden is white and floury, so it will be a good foil. Guess I need to figure out what its pericarp is.

Ray South
how does one go about selecting for a clear aleurone? Finding it difficult to get my head around this.

Mark Reed
First, when I said aleurone could be clear or transparent, thinking about that, I’m not 100% sure it’s true. It might be that it is about always transparent or translucent, and that how easy it is to see through just depends on how dark the color is.

I have searched but found little about how pericarp or aleurone color is inherited. Dominate or recessive, I don’t know. Joseph says concerning aleurone there is more than one gene involved, one to make the color, one to decide where in the plant it shows up, seeds, leaves, tassels??

Although I don’t know how it’s inherited or how many genes are involved it seems to me that pericarp is pretty straight forward. If you plant seeds with a variety, you keep getting a variety. It ranges from colorless to pink to dark red, brown, tan or chinmark. In my flint project I suspect it will be a few more years before I know for sure if one or another shows up more often than others but seems like darker reds and orange are most common. Carol’s Manna and Cascade series seem to indicate that reds might be most common, but I added in that Bronze Beauty with tan and browns, so who knows. I don’t know if know if different genes are involved for the different colors or if that trait is just variable from the same gene(s). I do think that the chinmark pattern might be from separate gene(s) because, though it’s most common on red, I’ve also seen it on brown and pink now, not just red.

I’m pretty sure that blues, purples in various shades with or without spots or other patterns always comes from the aleurone. The only pericarp pattern that I know of is the chinmark. Generally, blue/purple color is aleurone, reds/brown is pericarp. BUT since you are looking through the layers of various colors of various shades it can get really hard to know what’s really going on.

In mine I’m happy letting the pericarp settle into whatever it wants but I don’t want aleurone color at all. Fortunately, the northern flints, the Mexican landrace, the modern and heirloom sweets and Carol’s Cascade all lacked aleurone color from the start.

There is a bit of aleurone color still lurking in mine from the western flour corns I included back at the start. I thought I had eliminated it completely but last year a single ear with a light pink pericarp showed up with five off color kernels. Peeling the pericarp off revealed a light blue aleurone. So, aleurone color can lurk around and then pop out by surprise. It must be recessive and or gene combination or who knows what. I culled the whole ear, not just the off-color kernels.

Because those western corns like Painted Mountain and Hopi were in my original landraces I’ve had to select against anything with a hint of blue or any multi-colored ears. I still have both white and yellow endosperm so an ear with two shades is Ok because it is just the endosperm showing through the pericarp. If an ear has more than two shades, I assume aleurone color is involved and cull the entire ear.

The easiest way to eliminate aleurone color would be not to plant it in the first place. If you do that though you might miss some other nice traits, like the drought tolerance of those western flour corns.

One variety of my new popcorn project has some aleurone color but also some other traits I like. My first step with it will be to de-tassel it and cross to the others. Next year I’ll do the same with its F1 seeds and probably for another couple years after that. Eventually, I think just by doing that the aleurone color should go away.

Just selecting against aleurone color seems, over time to get rid of it. Selecting for mixed up aleurone color would be easy, you wouldn’t have to do much of anything.

Selecting for a specific and uniform aleurone color or pattern, I think might be very difficult, unless you were willing to trade off otherwise wide diversity in your landrace.

Greenie/Erin DeS
I appreciate your responses and generosity with your knowledge so much.

This fall when my seed is in I suspect I’ll find the courage to cut into all the kernels and see if I can distinguish layers.

Ray South
Thank you Mark. I do like the look of those single colour cobs in some of Carol Deppe’s corns but given my very limited knowledge and inexperience with corn I’ll stick to selecting from the yellow - orange - red colour palette in my polenta corn project and ignore uniform cobs for the time being.

Mark Reed
If you are dealing with just red, yellow, orange you probably already don’t have any aleurone color. Different shades of those colors can be just from variations of the pericarp. Different shades of those colors on the same ear (as long as there are not more than two shades) are probably just the difference between white or yellow endosperm showing through. Although yellow endosperm color can also vary in intensity.

If you ever what ears of uniform color, you have to standardize the endosperm. That’s easy if you want white because it is recessive. You know that any white endosperm kernel got its white genes from both parents and only carries white genes. No matter how many seeds from how many plants, if they are all white, all offspring will be white.

But yellow is dominate so if you started with a mix, the white could be hiding in any seed and if it happens to match up with another white, even generations later the offspring will be white. I know a fellow who has been trying for years to get rid of white endosperm.

I like white endosperm, so I’m not worried about eliminating yellow right now. Anytime I want I too, in just one season, I can easily eliminate yellow just by not planting any. I haven’t done so yet on the off chance the yellow endosperm kernels might be carrying some other traits that I want to keep.

Carol talks about uniform pericarp in different colors having different flavors. I’ve found that to be true, it’s largely why I want my flint corn to have uniformly colored ears. Plus, I just like the way it looks.

Ray South
We have very limited access to corn varieties here in Australia as we cannot import corn. So, for diversity’s sake I’m having to start with very little yellow endosperm though that is my ultimate goal. I don’t need to eliminate it, just have it in the minority.
This coming season is the first for me so this year a focus will be learning what tassels when so that next year I can do a decent job of ensuring good cross pollination.

Megan Grinwald
I am very interested in your very northern adapted corn. I am on the lookout for Gaspe to try this year now. Seems to be tough to find commercially in the USA - so thanks for the hunt!

Hoping to have another huge planting week now that our nighttime temps are finally catching up to above freezing. Corn, peanuts, soybeans, tomatoes, peppers, sorghums, millets, marigolds, and more, all going in this week. Transplants and directs.

I’m very excited. :grin:

Greenie/Erin DeS
It’s very, very short; roughly knee-high. It needs to be planted pretty close for pollination because it’s so tiny. The first year I did it on a 1-foot grid and that was too far. The second year I did 2 seeds every 9 inches, in 12" rows, and that worked but I want to play with it. Will likely do a 6" x 12" or 9" x 9" grid this year. It might grow a little bigger for you down there.

Gaspe is such a heart corn. It’s that ragged edge of corn’s ability, pushing the absolute limit of adaptation, and it’s the result of so so so many generations of thoughtful stewards.

I planted May 26 and harvested Sept 7 last year and it was well on its way to dry. I expect it’ll take 2/3 of that in your summer heat. Report back!

I may have found another source for Gaspe up here that’s not linked to the Sherck/GLSS gene pools!

Greenie/Erin DeS
2022-06-06T07:00:00Z
Half of this is in the ground, the other half will be tonight. I will admit to spending a lot of time just admiring the seeds.

I’m also working with some flour corns.

And I’m trialling four sources of Painted Mountain against each other, and selecting of course.

Greenie/Erin DeS
2022-10-02T07:00:00Z
Alright, lots of updates on this one. The long and short:

Crows took about half of the seeds after they sprouted, leaving me with plants from:

oaxacan green, montana morado, early riser, magic manna, painted mountain glorious organics and painted mountain sweet rock (the painted mountain salt spring sprouted first and was thus eaten first, the annapolis painted mountan was in a place that could not be covered), new york red, homestead yellow, open oak party, cascade ruby gold, saskatoon white, saskatchewan rainbow, atomic orange, assiniboine flint, morden and gaspe

I had many fewer individuals of most of these than expected. The only one the crows didn’t touch was saskatoon white. I covered the rest for a couple weeks until the crows got bored and went away, but didn’t manage to cover all the plants.

It was a very cold long spring and thus a short summer for us. Out first frost was roughly Sept 8 and we had about fifty days where the daytime temperature got above 18-20C; the night temperature never was above 15C but was higher than usual at 10-11C.

I also ended up planting late (mid-June) due to issues including a rototiller late delivery, stepping on a nail, and sitting up in the cornfield with a gun for the crows. It was quite a spring!

I planted gaspe in two waves instead of the once-per-week I was planning. The first wave ripened good and hard before frost, though the husks didn’t go brown, and mostly was done before anything else dropped pollen.

The second gaspe pollinated with some overlap with, in decreasing order, saskatchewan rainbow, atomic orange, morden, saskatoon white, painted mountain, cascade ruby gold and I hand-carried a bunch of pollen around to ensure some good crossing in all of these.

The second gaspe, saskatchewan rainbow, some atomic orange, a few cascade ruby gold, a few painted mountain, the limited number of morden plants I had, a few magic manna, and some saskatoon white managed to ripen seed. Saskatchewan rainbow, morden, and gaspe were the only really solid ones in that regard.

Many of my crossed cobs are showing evidence of crosses; saskatchewan rainbow seems to have been a very prolific pollen parent with lots of blue and blue speckling showing up from its crosses, especially in the nearby morden and second gaspe patches.

Now that I’ve narrowed the field and captured some pollen, I have a better sense of how to focus next year. Definitely I’ll have a patch for my crossed morden, for my crossed gaspe, for my crossed saskatchewan rainbow, for the crossed atomic orange, and probably an “everything else” patch or two, one sorted for flint and one for flour. I’ll also be growing a patch of pure gaspe, time-offset from all the grexing; I won’t mind if anything else crosses.

I may also plant some montana morado indoors in order to start it early and get a pure cross between it and gaspe, I think that would be fun. It was off on the end of the garden and got no water, it might have been more similar to painted mountain in timing if it had been watered.

I expect that I can get everything in roughly a month to three weeks earlier next year, and that will likely make a big difference.

Pictures to come when the cobs are finished drying and I start to pull seeds.

I remain firmly in love with gaspe, newly in love with saskatchewan rainbow, and very excited about this project.

I’d also really like to try lavender mandan again, the first time I tried it, it was in the shade and didn’t ripen. The second time the crows ate every bit.

I’ll also have some extra seed from many of my way-too-late corns, including early riser, new york red, open oak party, and homestead yellow, that I had retained from last year and likely won’t be using again. I’ll send that into the landrace seed pool/have it for swapping.

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Hey, Erin, I seem to recall in one of Melissa K. Norris’s videos, she showed her corn patch, which had a stake on the end of each row, and a line of string about an inch off the ground going from one end to the other. She said that worked to keep birds from eating her corn seeds. Might be worth trying!

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Sadly these birds have gone right through garbage bins, cardboard boxes, animal skins, and they’ve learned to bribe my dogs. They’re a little beyond that. Luckily the floating row cover works.

Painted mountain results 2022 and plan 2023:

Of all the seeds pictured above, 26 individuals survived and produced viable seed, 25 of those produced a fair amount of seed, maybe 20 produced really viable looking seeds (I’m planting them all). Most of those were from Sweet Rock and Glorious Organics. 5 of the cobs were dark red after seed was removed, 4 were pink; I’m hoping that means they’re from plants with more red since I didn’t keep that kind of records.

There was a gorgeous range of colour on what survived, lots of markings and colour combinations. I got roughly 2 lbs of seed, I’ll allocate space for roughly 600 individuals and freeze the rest.

Gaspe x Montana Morado and Montana Morado results 2022 and plan 2023

This was a small patch, few of each survived. I got 9 ears of montana morado with seed that might be mature enough to grow and about a cup of seed from that, and 6 cobs of gaspe with obvious crossed seeds. This year I’ll be planting a patch of the montana morado side-by-side with the crossed gaspe which in turn will be side-by-side with some fresh gaspe, maybe 200 plants in all.

Saskatchewan Rainbow results 2022 and plan 2023

2-3 pounds of seed produced from roughly 25 surviving individuals, which is most of the small patch I planted. Early ripening, easy to shell. I’ll plant roughly 400 individuals from my saved seed from selected beautiful kernels, and roughly 100 individuals from the original supplier (or more suppliers if I can find it anywhere other than Heritage Harvest Seeds).

Morden crosses results 2022 and plan 2023

Less than half a cup of seed produced from 10 or so surviving plants, some crossed. I’ll pick out the crosses and plant all of them in a patch, directly next to fifty individuals from saved seed. My plan is to put pollen from all the flour corns (montana morado, magic manna, painted mountain) into this. Elsewhere I’ll put a small patch of more saved seed plus my original seed, possibly in the pig greenhouse, to do a seed increase. Unsure of number of individuals yet.

Gaspe crosses results 2022 and plan 2023

My later planting of gaspe had pollen dropped on it all season, whenever I walked by, from other corns. Pretty much all individuals survived, producing several lbs of seed with many visibly crossed seeds. I still need to weigh the seed, pick out the crossed seeds, and count or weigh them to see how many individuals I get. I’ll plant them all in a block, probably sorted into sub-blocks by colour because I’m like that.

I’m opening a new gaspe cross patch with alternating gaspe and going to seed swap seeds. This won’t be big, 100 individuals max?

My earlier planting of gaspe was mostly uncrossed as anticipated; I think I saw a couple crossed kernels in the whole batch of seed. Nearly all individuals survived. I’ll pick out the crossed and add them to the later planting crossed block, and I’ll continue to try and keep a separate gaspe line going through timing etc, folding in more diversity by planting 80% saved seed and 20% seed from various acquired sources. My goal this year is 1000 individuals.

Still to shell:
Atomic orange
Cascade ruby gold
Magic manna

Other external seed to plant:
Sweet corn trial patch with two-plant-wide stripes of various types, 20 individuals of each.
Mandan lavender and papas blue again?

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Wow, they bribe your dogs?! Smart birds! :rofl:

Atomic Orange results and plans

Several ears of Cascade Ruby Gold may have got mixed up in these, that or the oranges somehow segregated out this year into very intense, neat gold, and regular orange. I’d been picking the ears into separate crates and keeping them together after I husked them, but this was a lot more corn than I remember picking and some of the ears were longer than expected too. Either way, they were beautiful. I put a bunch of pollen from various sources into the atomic orange patch, which in turn was partly from Julia’s grow-out and partly from a packet of Baker Creek seed. Likely inclusions are, then: Morden, Cascade Ruby-gold, Gaspe, Saskatchewan Rainbow, maaaybe assiniboine (didn’t ripen for me but was growing in the general area), Saskatoon White, potentially a tiny bit of pollen from New York Flint and Homestead Yellow (which both didn’t ripen but had a couple plants growing in the general area).

I got roughly 30 beautifully formed and nicely ripe ears and 30 more marginal, not-sure-whether-the-seed-will-germinate ears. The underripe ears had a weird issue where, when I shelled them with my fingertips, the most underripe seeds had the skin just flake off.

I’m planning to grow a big patch of seed from the 30 ripest ears, but I’m also saving a batch of seed from all individuals for the vault.

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I’m having fun going over my corn and pulling out anything that’s an obvious cross. I like the idea of concentrating the crosses together so I can see how they grow in comparison to each other, and in comparison to the more homogenous plants.

These are magic manna crosses:

This was my montana morado, I got more than I expected at 11 individuals and roughly a cup and a bit of seed, though as you can see some of it is pretty shrivelled.

Here I’m pulling a yellow (probably gaspe) cross out of Saskatoon White.

And these are pretty red/brown, of which there are many, probably because it was up against Cascade Ruby Gold on this side, though I also did carry some pollen from other areas (that’s likely the blue and blue speckle)

And this is the general Saskatoon White population, I’m leaving a little of the red/brown in there because it’s pretty, and because two ears from the original population showed entirely red/brown so I consider it part of everything now. If I were growing for historic fidelity I’d rogue those ears out. I got more from this than I thought I would; only the plants at the south edge of the block ripened anything.

While I’m thinking about my summer corn planting, I notice that plants near the edge ripened faster and more completely. This suggests I need to open up my spacing some on the bigger corns, from 1’ within rows and 2’ between rows to… something else. Meanwhile gaspe seems to do well on a 10" grid or so. I’m used to plants that visually cover as much space as they need for their roots, but corn appears to like enough space that it’s not touching, at least how I grow it up here. I can see why squash likes to be run through it (or maybe tomatoes?).

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A friend suggested I name one of these projects “Crow Feed”. Not sure if that’s courting even more trouble, or averting it with symbolism.

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Here’s what’s going on this year. Soaked last night.

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wish you good luck. how long do you soak them ?

Loved reading all of this info! Before i used up all my space on Floriani, Cascade Riby Gold and Hooker sweer indian, along with some Lavender Mandan, I was looking for Gaspé and hadn’t been able to find it anywhere. I had reached out to a few member on seed savers exchange but did not hear back sadly. Does anyone have a source they could tell me about, where I could obtain some for next year? Or perhaps even for a second planting, since it is so quick and I am in east central PA!

That’s a lot of corn! How exciting!

I allow 2.5 square feet per corn plant, which I then expect to produce two cobs. If I grow one corn plant by itself, it might produce 15 cobs.

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Wow, I didn’t realize they could be that prolific if left with wider spacing!

That is a crazy amount of cobbs, wow! All in the main stalk, or in you experience did it shoot out a bunch of tillers?
Either way, that seems like it might kind of be a great way to maximize yield