Winter wheat population from wide crosses

I became interested in landrace wheat varieties in the 1990’s. My thought was to be able to grow my own grain in the garden, as a cover crop but also for food. The greater straw production of the old varieties was an attractive by product, good for mulching.

I was able to request seed from the USDA seed bank. They were maintaining a number of old Ohio wheats, from before 1930. At the same time I learned how to cross wheat. I thought if I crossed the different varieties, I could start a new landrace adapted to current conditions. Here’s a photo of my wheat crossing, using the approach method:

As I learned more about wheat in the local agricultural university library, I thought it would be useful to broaden the genetics of my landrace. I crossed in some landraces, also from USDA, that came from other countries with a similar climate to Ohio.
I also did crosses with durum wheats, and triticale. These were more distant crosses, disrupting the wheat genome more, and required several generations of back crossing to wheat to get back to a productive plant.

Modern bread wheat is thought to have originated from a spontaneous cross between cultivated emmer wheat (a type of durum), and a wild goat grass (Ae. tauschii) growing as a weed in the field. Cold hardiness and tolerance of poor soils, as well as the gluten that makes bread possible, came from the goat grass. I was able to make this cross as well, with the help of seeds from USDA, and scientific articles from the ag library. I only got a few crossed seeds, but I know I succeeded as the plants were completely different from both parents. Photo of the F-1 plant, and later back crossing to wheat.


The early generations were somewhat like spelt, except the seeds were even more covered with husks that were difficult to remove, and the rachis was brittle so that the spikelets would break off very easily, like a wild plant reseeding. It took many generations of back crossing to “normal” wheat to get a tough rachis and easy threshing.

Over the years I’ve selected for vigor, seeds that look like hard wheat, strong stems, and awnless heads. I plant in fall here, early to mid October. I don’t broadcast, I plant in a grid of 5-6 inches spacing. This allows strong fall growth with a lot of tillers. It also lets me evaluate individual plants for crossing. This is my wheat (with dwarf winter peas) in March.

I have selected for stem strength by weighing the dry stem at harvest (after heads removed) and dividing by the measured height. Since I have a gram scale for weight, but measure the height in inches, I get a number that is grams per inch. I mainly do this for plants I might use for crossing the next year, after selecting the plants with the best stems by eye.

I found this necessary, because the tallest plants tend to dominate, and the if they lodge they take down the better shorter plants. Also I would like to grow winter peas on the wheat, and stronger stems also mean more biomass for the garden. This is a photo of some of the better stem plants on May 15, 2025.

Two days later we had a severe thunderstorm with 50-60 mph wind gusts that lodged a lot of my wheat and rye, but the previous plants got through it ok. Harvest was in late June. I have to cover with bird netting because of sparrows. I had about 100 F-1 plants from crosses I did last year. Here is a photo of one of the crosses that was most promising, that I hand threshed out later this morning. That’s a 36 inch tall yellow yardstick.

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Very interesting! Thank you Mike for sharing.

Can you give some details about the crossing process?

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Supplies are a small surgical or dissecting scissor, a fine tip forceps, a stake for support (I use bamboo), 1 inch dialysis tubing, string, and a large test tube (or small tall bottle). The dialysis tubing comes flat, you need cut off about an 8 inch long piece and puff it out (there’s a trick to this), then fold over the top several times, sticking it with saliva, so it is closed at the top and open at the bottom.

First I choose the female parent. You need a stem that hasn’t flowered yet, ideally one that will flower the next day. Early in the season the head might be fully out from the top leaf, later you need to get to it sooner. I always do this in the morning, before any other heads flower (anthers out of glumes releasing pollen). First with a small scissor I trim off the top florets. Then I trim off the bottom few florets. You’re left with 4 to 6 florets on each side of the stem. Then I trim off the top of the florets, just enough so you can see the anthers inside. Then with fine tip tweezers I pluck out the anthers very carefully. There are three in each flower. The anthers should be green, if they are yellow they are ready to release pollen, and can burst. In that case stop, and pick a different stem that is a bit younger in development. I just do the largest flower in each cluster, removing the smaller flowers. I put in a bamboo stake next to the stem.

Now you find a stem from your chosen male parent that also will be flowering the next day. Cut off the stem near the ground with a sharp scissor or knife, and pop it in the large test tube or jar, with water in it. Cut off the top leaf (flag leaf), if there are awns trim them off. Take it over to your female stem. Tie a 2-3 foot long piece of string around the top of the test tube. Now you want to tie the other end of the string to the bamboo stake, so that the head of the male stem is just above the female. I don’t use a knot, I wrap the string around the stake several times and finish with a half hitch. This makes it easier to adjust later. Sometimes I have to trim the male stem shorter to make it work.

Now carefully work the dialysis tubing over the two heads (the tweezers can help). It should cover all of the lower head and go an inch or two farther. A string tied to the stake, and loosely looping around the vertical test tube string and the two stems can help keep everything together if it is windy. You could label the cross, and keep record in a notebook.

Each morning I check, and adjust the string to keep the male head just above the female. Usually they grow at different rates. The male will release pollen over several days. After a week, you can cut the male stem and carefully work it out, or just take off the dialysis tubing, remove the male, then replace the tubing over the female. I usually get 10-20 seeds per cross.

I got the method from several journal articles, along with some several tips I’ve picked up from experience.

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Mike thank you for this detailed topic and the method employed which is remarkable. I’m just so impressed by the tillering at early stage… that is sssso impressive. I’ve been planting about 50 varieties or landraces of grain with uniform sowing in 2022 and 2023 and I think I never sow anything tillering like that, or possibly some oats and maybe spelt. Certainly no common wheat! Thanks and… :clap:!

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Wow! Clearly a labour of love! Bravo

Thank you for the very detailed explanation. I really enjoy learning about the different techniques to make crosses for different crops.

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The tillering you see is partly due to the wider spacing between plants, but mostly is an adaptation to our continental climate, with cold winters. All winter wheats I’ve grown here, that are hardy to survive our winters, tiller a lot. This past winter we had a low of -6F (-21C), as well at least a month with the ground frozen solid with no snow cover and lows in the teens (-5 to -11C). The short day length in fall, winter and early spring trigger the plants to put most of their growth into the root system, while the top growth is a low rosette of leaves. We can easily get a low of 20F (-6C) in March or early April, by then the soil is no longer frozen.

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This is awesome. I would love trying to grow this if you have seed to spare.

I could spare small amounts of seed. It would be nice to see how it does for other growers. To be clear, I don’t have a finished variety, it’s a population with a fair amount of variation. Which is a good thing!

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I’m pretty used to chaotic seedlings. I’m currently growing some hand selected glass gem x red popcorn i could trade if you’re interested. I’m in NW Ohio and I’m loving the idea of grain and mulch/bedding cuz I don’t trust my local straw options.

Thanks for the offer of the corn, but I have my own corn project and don’t have space for another right now. It’s a field corn for corn meal than has red or purple speckles on the kernels. It’s a cross between some heirloom US corns, and some Mexican corns from NS/S, which supplied the speckles.

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