I'm the Phylogenic Tree Plug, What do you need?

[VeggieSavage (Professor Porcupine)]

@Hugo

Serious research! Significant topic for years to come.

Thank you! I’ve been collecting Phylogenic Trees for quite a while now .
It’s been 5 years of constant researching, almost became a daily grind. I have no land but so much passion/drive to grow my own food so I just put all that energy into researching. Getting the homework out the way so I can hit the floor running when I get land to Landrace Garden on.

@Bobby

I searched for that species but it seems like Solanum mephiticum is an african tropical plant and I can’t think of a reason it would have better frost resistance than regular tomato.

Yea I could barley find any info on the species other than that it was in the Black Nightshade group. I have no idea where my friend got the excerpt from, I don’t even know if the authors mistaken it for a different species. Reguardless of what happened, It gives me a good idea to try grafting with Bittersweet Nightshade for making cold hardy plants.
I took this photo of bittersweet Nightshade after frost, somehow the leaves were still standing & quite fresh (Perhaps not hard enough of a frost).

I think it would help lignify any solanum scion. I discuss more over here whilte trying to breed Bittersweet Nightshade for edible fruit.

Breeding Bittersweet nightshade (Solanum dulcamara) For edible fruit?

I’ve done a bit more researching into the other species of the Bittersweet Nightshade Group (Dulcamaroid Clade). Found some interesting things. It seems most of the other species are sadly poisonous as well, however there is 1 species below has a risky edible part. Lyreleaf Nightshade (Solanum lyratum) PFAF says it has edible leaves if cooked (Pfaf also advises caution & so do I, ya don’t want to fuck around to find out ). Berries may or may not be equally edible like S. …

@JinTX

Of course any hardwood tree that adapts this method is going to become seasonal perennial bush.

Don’t Peppers start to form Lignified bark at the end of the season, imagine if it could survive winter via the roots? They are a perennial after all, people even overwinter them, I just don’t understand how they make the peppers plants go dormant (It doesn’t drop it’s leaves hence why they prune them back hard).

@JinTX

My initial interpretation is that it formed a “bark” layer around the tomato at the graft point and then the tomato died back to that point but retained enough scion inside the protective layer to regrow?

Very interesting thoughts, I also wonder if you make tomato the middle internode ! Imagine if it could lignify the tomato scion from both directions (Top & Bottom), I mean if Tomato can graft onto bittersweet Nightshade, whose to say I can’t graft another bittersweet nightshade onto the Tomato Scion?

I remember my friend found Some French researchers even managed to cross Tomato x Gogi berry (A rediculously wide cross!), @Ascentropic I forgot the study link. So Gogi berry grafting for cold hardiness maybe even more effective than Bittersweet Nightshade, but why not try both & see which is better?

@JinTX

I think the fungi follow the soil PH environment though. They play a huge role, but only after the right conditions have been met.

Indeed, Pioneer species (Often Labeled “Invasive” despite being their ecological role) help facilitate good conditions.

@JinTX

If I collect and incubate a bunch of fungi/microbes from an acidic soil and then apply them to my alkaline soil it will have very little, if any, effect on the PH of my soil.

Yea, something tells me they will die cuz the enviroment isn’t there for them. I just know Plants teaming up with the Fungi & Soil life affect the PH of the soil by chemically altering it. Well at least that’s what I remember from watching all the Matt Powers Elain Inghram videos on YouTube.

@JinTX

This is where the fungi/microbes would come into play, but they will only bring it to a more neutral PH level (over a long period) rather than what would be considered acidic. And as soon as the food (the organic matter) is stopped this effect would begin to reverse.

Depends, unless the plant can just change the Ph around it’s root zone, no reason to change entire ecosystem’s ph soil if you don’t have to, right? Organic matter always is generated by the plants growing there (Why I like Fall + Chop & Drop).

@JinTX

But that’s all a very long process if you are starting with an area that has a high PH level.

Interesting, Doesn’t Matt Powers & Elain Inghram teach you can fix the Ph balance of the soils sometimes in as little as a year? I think they were using compost teas but I wasn’t sure it’s effectivness if you cna just chop & drop your way to fertility & PH balance (Granted takes longer).