True Potato Seeds- 2025 Grow Reports

It’s a good time to plant your TPS! here is some guidance shared last year.

Start seeds between March 1st and May 1 (they are slow as seedlings, so the earlier, the better). They need four to eight weeks (based on your preferences, needs, greenhouse space…) to grow before transplanting them outside. Plant 2 or more times as many seeds as you want seedlings for, and cover them slightly with soil (less than ¼ inch).
Read growing reports and questions from 2024.

Anybody direct seeding share your experiences! But I recommend doing that after you have some experience growing TPS.

Planting Instructions: When choosing or making your starting soil, be sure to include native field soil in the mix, but as weed free as possible (forest soil). Potatoes are healthier when they build relationships with soil microbes from the first moment of germination. Check out Going to Seeds’ free online course ‘How Microbes Help Plants Adapt” to learn more about this. Sterile soil is not at all ideal– in fact, the more microbes, the better. Keep nitrogen levels low– seedlings will be less prone to disease and legginess when they don’t have excess nitrogen, and lower fertility will encourage them to build mycorrhizal relationships early.

Depth recommendations vary-- but I’ve had better luck with healthy seedlings when sprinkling up to a 1/4 inch of soil over seeds.

Germination is best under cool, damp, and dark conditions. I put them on a shelf inside for the first few days (watch closely for germination and put in bright light at the first signs). Germination is best at 60-70 degrees, cooler than other nightshades. Germination may be slow– up to two weeks. After one week, be sure to put them in a bright spot with at least 8 hours of sunlight. As long as you have enough sunlight, grow lights aren’t needed. As they grow, give them plenty of outside time in the wind and sun to build vigrouous seedlings with strong stems.

Be prepared for uneven and spotty germination, tiny seedlings, and slow growth. Unlike other crops, potatoes have not been selected to have strong seedling growth.

This is what your seedlings may look like after a month, even if you planted multiple seeds per cell. Don’t worry about small or yellow seedlings, don’t choose them for planting.

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I’ll have many a photo to share here, @julia.dakin. I will be starting the TPS mix this season as well as seeding some of those OG seeds you sent me way back as well as Oikos’ TPS blend from Michigan. AND, I have a basket of TPS tubers from last season (your seeds and Ken’s seeds he calls ‘Perpetual Diversity TPS’). They will be going in a long well fed (animal manures from the farm) overwintered bed that likely has remnant tubers I missed from last season to boot. I’ve left them in a tapestry/runner covered woven basket on the floor of the coldest room of my farm house for over 6 months and they look to be right on schedule for this season’s grow.


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We’re pretty excited about our annual TPS grows. Last year’s grow was extremely fun - the plants were bumping and singing and my daughter was heavily engaged (a win for Farmer Papa). We even had a decent harvest of multiple 3 gallon pots including a giant tater bigger than the size of my fists (lower right light purple pictured below):



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Glad you posted this. I have some sorry looking seedlings in peat moss. Been 4 weeks and I’m not sure they’re worth bothering with. Saved some seed back thankfully and will try them in my backyard’s soil.

I have a ton of teensy seedlings from the 2025 TPS, 2024 TPS, and several other sources (a few Cultivariable wide tetraploids, some Magic Molly, some Loowit, some EFN Perennial Perpetual Diversity, and a good few from some seed labelled “Lofthouse TPS 2019” from the Serendipity Seed Swap box last year… surprisingly good germination on that one so far!)

This will be my first year growing potatoes from TPS, so I’m going overboard a bit in hopes of getting some well adapted to my area AND neglect, lol. I started them in a homemade starter soil mix, threw in some sand and a little bit of home compost/soil for good measure, and used a tiny soil blocker to get them going. Results so far suggest I was on the right track.

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That’s a good-looking harvest. Did it grow from TPS sprouted in the same season, or from smaller tubers saved from the year before?

**Something went screwy, and I think I accidentally overwrote Joseph’s post. I just meant to reply about his potatoes, not to replace his post. **

So at least some of those grew from seeds? I’m interested because when I grew TPS I never harvested anything as big as even the smallest of yours.

What I’m getting at is that unless they can be bred to actually produce something to eat (from seed) then I don’t have room for them in my garden. I need crops that produce a harvest and seeds, from seeds, in one season, in other words, annual potatoes.

Your photos and that one video of Julia’s potatoes are the only evidence I’ve seen that it might actually be possible to have annual grown potatoes. Without real food and seeds in one season I still have the absolute requirement of keeping little tubers alive over winter. There is no possibility of recovering from a crop failure or loss of (seed tubers) in a single season.

It actually may never be possible to accomplish annual potatoes in my climate, but it looks like you might have shot at it.

That sounds really fun! I’m excited to see what comes of this for you this season.

Im growing a bit of TPS from multiple sources, including GTS. Germination is spotty as expected. My goal is to produce enough seed so I can direct sow next year. Expecting 1-2% success rate when direct sowing, so I will need thousands of seeds.

Well, one thing to keep in mind here is I don’t prescribe to the “…use only your native soil for landrace production”. I certainly don’t begrudge this approach and I think it’s very very worthwhile and a very valid practice but my own personal ‘issue’ out here is I am only one man with literally only my two hands in an absurdly unforgiving grow zone. I have zero qualms to willingly push things along. Because I’ve worked in many nurseries and have farmed as a profession (previously, I’m a gentleman tinkerer now) for over two decades I’ve developed a closed loop system of how I handle my native soils and soil building wherever I am. I spend my first year doing nothing and observing how the native soils in place react to a farming season of growing. I respond accordingly to work with that baseline or deviate and evolve that baseline. Out this way, I am always adding to my soil beds I grow in: overwintered chicken bedding in my perennial beds; goat bedding and rabbit bedding in my annual grows. Constantly. In the chicken bedding, I add my own bio-char with sprinklings of Neem meal; Azomite; and Basalt dust. This pre-innoculates their bedding and it greatly eliminates odor and helps with a modicum of pest control. The rabbits and goats eat food heavy in alfalfa which is known to carry large amounts of PGH’s (plant growth hormones). I learned this while growing cannabis for three years professionally in a multi-million dollar grow situation where we were routinely growing 8-12 lb. plants; breeding our own varieties; and always adding 50# bags of alfalfa pellets after each harvest and cut down to promote a boom in vegetative state every following grow. These are my baseline staples of soil building out this way. SO, my beds innately can produce consistently potent leaves and fruits in my absurdly limited short season - with the addendum I am religiously watching the frost schedule which can literally be 12 months of the year. A best case scenario is it is only 9-to9-9.5 months in a calendar season. In the warmer months, then, I add red wigglers from my worm bins once they wake up. It’s essentially a hodgepodge of nutritional methods that work within my closed-loop animal systems. Once something arrives on the farm it is going back into the soil. I do the same with my potting mix. Once I’ve made my mix, that mix is either going into the Earth with the plant or the plant dies; I put that pot and mix aside; let it overwinter once; and then recycle the soil back atop the growing beds with, you guessed it, Alfalfa pellets I steal from the rabbit and goat feed. We are mutually indebted. After my first season here, I made the choice to further commit myself to an animal regimen. I could explain in further detail but, suffice to say, those potatoes look that size because I helped them get to that size. They grew in a supercharged, tilthy, very welcoming environment I willingly row-covered numerous times (I had hard frosts on June 18th and August 28th last year - absurd :sweat_smile:). I am personally unwilling to work as hard as I do without a very solid percentage of a decent outcome. Hence, my breeding of the plants I do grow out this way are very much tilted to short-season; cold-hardiness; very-low water external water input; and flavor. The genetics will carry that trait as an innate expressioned baseline.


I’m trying TPS for the first time this year, using only GTS 2025 seed. I tried both native soil and a sterile mix for seed starting to test out both, and the native soil is the clear winner so far. The only cells I didn’t use native soil for are in the top left of the picture, and they are definitely the smallest after 3 weeks.

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I’ve got True Potato Seed from GTS for 2025, and I put them in my north flower bed (or herb bed or something, its quite a collection of things!). It will stay cooler there as its on the north side of a mostly-true-north facing house. Its been warm days and cool nights and we just got an inch of rain, so hopefully I’ll be seeing seedlings soon!

I’m growing potatoes for the first time this year so I’m growing Going to Seed’s 2024 TPS mix in addition to some Red La Soda from seed potatoes. I’m combining these efforts because I actually want to harvest lots of potatoes this year, and I don’t know how many TPS plants will grow well in my humid South Louisiana climate. I also hope to incorporate Red La Soda genetics into future mixes since that variety was developed by LSU in the 1940s for Louisiana growers.

I started the TPS in late January and just got them in the ground this week. I was told by local growers that ideally potatoes are planted by the end of February which I did for the seed potatoes, but the TPS seedlings were still very tiny at 4 weeks old. Right now I have 20 TPS seedlings in the ground. I started with around 60 seedlings and planted the biggest ones in what room I had in the garden.

I’m not sure what to expect with potatoes this year or how much pollination to expect. My tomatoes have always struggled to set fruit after mid-May when our temperatures get too high.

The Red LaSodas are sterile. I’ve grown them many times and they won’t set fruit, the flowers just fall off. It would be worth it maybe to try pollinating the Red Lasoda flowers with some TPS seedling pollen if any manage to flower at the same time and see if they will set fruit.

The good news is the red lasodas grow well and taste amazing.

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So, I noticed one of my TPS seedlings sending out an extra set of roots from the node by the cotyledon leaves, even though that node is at least a centimeter above the soil (see circled part of the pic). Anyone know if that is normal for a potato seedling?

If i get anything, I’m going to throw one of each kind straight back into the ground and see if it survives winter and comes up the next spring. A variety i can replant immediately in the same furrow i dug them out of would save me a lot of labor. I think TPS is more about rolling the dice and selecting for traits than it is about stocking the pantry.

Last year was our first attempt with TPS and we had surprisingly good results. We used seed from GTS, and Cultivariable’s Wide Diploid Mix. While the potatoes from TPS yielded a bit less and took longer than conventional clonal potatoes, the results were respectable. We also saved a good amount of seed.

here’s a photo of some of the nicest tubers:

seed:



This year we are growing seedlings from our own seed, GTS, and Oikos via Experimental Farm Network. I’m surprised to see quite uneven germination, with really strong germ from our own saved seed.

GTS on the left, our seed in the center, and a tiny strip on the right of the Oikos:

I have more seed from GTS, so I’ll try another batch of seedlings.

I think we also saved a few tubers grown from seed from last year, which we’ll also try to grow out.

Any idea if the GTS mix is more on the tetraploid or diploid side?