Mark R
Is there any way, without a laboratory, to know which is which? Or do you just have to keep track of how they were labeled when you got them?
I “think” mismatch in ploidy levels is ONE of the issues with compatibility in my sweet potatoes, but I can’t see it so all I can do is favor seed from those more prone to making seeds. Some make a couple of dozen, some make hundreds, some make none. With sweet potatoes those that do make nice storage roots do it from seed, “in one season”, so it’s easy to find the plants that do both. Since the nice roots and the seediness are easy to see I can just favor them for the next generation and don’t have to actually know the genetic details. The ability to make roots, and seeds or either one isn’t necessarily passed to the next generation but over the years the incidence of that has increased.
Unfortunately, that kind of selection by simple observation apparently can’t be done with potatoes. The only example of potatoes I’ve ever heard of that comes close to making something worth eating, from seed, is in the video of
Julia D’s garden.
Emily S
That’s an interesting question. If someone else did a similar experiment with sweet potato breeding and started with different cultivars, might they end up with a different ploidy in the majority of their population, meaning that some things that are seedy for you would not be for them, and vice versa?
I guess the only way to know for sure would be if someone did it, and you and they traded clones with each other that flowered a lot and didn’t produce seeds, to see if they did better in the other person’s population.
Christopher W
You might want to take a read through this: Potato Ploidy and Endosperm Balance Number - Cultivariable
Ray S
Between Mark’s very sensible, observational approach and the article recommended by Christopher (see both above) I’ve decided to leave the diploids and tetraploids together. A cross is unlikely but should one occur the seed would in all likelihood be sterile. But should such a seed grow and should the resultant plant produce viable seed (again, very unlikely) then yippeee, I have something worth pursuing.
Julia D
For now I also am allowing the diploids and tetraploids to all grow together and I don’t worry about it. That’s how my colorful seed grex is too. I think the main reason I will eventually shift to separating them is because most diploids have almost no dormancy. Does this mean the original growers of diploids grew them continuously? But the Andes region does have a long dry season so that doesn’t make sense to me. Or did they grow them every year from seed?
Ray S
Something I’ve wondered myself. Last season I left diploid tubers in the ground and also put some in the cold store (a heavily insulated room in the shed). Both sprouted in spring. I don’t know what this means as far as dormancy goes.
Mark R
@Julia D “DID they grow them every year from seed?” yes, that is THE, or rather A question, interesting but also somewhat irrelevant.
I certainly have no clue, so to me the REAL question is: CAN they be grown every year from seed??? It may always be difficult in my climate but some in your garden looked to me to be close to making a good harvest from seed.
Might you just do what I have done with my sweet potatoes? Forget color, flavor, ploidy levels and everything else for now and simply plant seeds only from those that make the largest tubers and seeds.
Give me seeds that can actually produce potatoes, in one season (from seed), and you’ll get all the sweet potatoes you could ever want.
Julia D
That is a generous offer but do I want sweet potatoes ? Ok just kidding, of course I do. … The harvest of 2020 when Joseph was there was amazing. And my first from TPS. Yields per plant were often better than the tuber grown plants. Then… this past year it was not so good. I had a big project, started with about 900 seedlings transplanted. The plants started flowering and fruiting waayyy earlier, while they were pretty small. That sounds like drought or nutritional stress, but water wasn’t an issue, and it was the same even in rows that had more compost added. I think it was because it was an especially foggy summer, they weren’t getting enough sunlight and thought it was fall and started flowering/making tubers and berries before the plants were big enough. And then they stopped vegging because they were in reproductive mode so plants stayed smallish. And then because of fog the blight was worse than normal, and most plants died… the problem with this theory is that lack of sunlight shouldn’t have affected all of them in the same way. My yields were more like what people talk about-- low yields of small tubers. I think probably half a pound to a pound each, even from seeds whose parents had produced 11 pounds per plant. So… long story short, I need more years of doing this. But your suggestion on selecting for any plants that produce a good yield in the first year is a good idea. I didn’t do that this past year, because high yielders were always white, and calories from white potatoes are cheap and abundant, and I figured I’d rather have lower yields from purple and pink potatoes. But next year I will segregate the high yielders group from the mixed dark colors group, and look for a potato for you so I can get all the sweet potatoes I ever want…