Pawpaw (Asimina triloba)

I’ve grown Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) since about 2019. A few named varieties, but mostly from seed. One tree (‘Sunflower’) started flowering this year.

My goal is to be able to grow pawpaw in the first place. The tree is limited by hardiness in my climate. I colleague grows them in Gothenburg, much more north of here, so I know it is possible. I want to grow them outside the greenhouse as a proper tree.

With pawpaw, a rule of thumb applies: The bigger the seed, the bigger the fruit

The last 2-3 years I’ve grown hundreds from seed every year. I usually stratify the seed and then let them germinate warm inside. The plant seems to like much more heat than our usual climate provides. Germination is hypogeal, ie. takes place below ground. I put all the seed in one container and when I see signs of germination, I take them outside to give the roots more space.

Sometimes I do that a bit too late, like here:


I grow them on in large trays I dumpster dive from the recycling station:

Or in deep pots. The juvenile taproot on pawpaw is really long. Some people obsess about having deep pots. It doesn’t matter that much, because you can prune the taproot and eventually it will spread out anyway.

I love working with pawpaw seedlings. The roots smell like Magnolia. The Cherimoya-family of which it is the only temperate species I know of is in the Magnolia order. I find those connections fascinating. You can smell taxonomy.

Tall containers take up less space though. These are some of the seedlings from this year

At the end of the season we grade all the seedlings. With pawpaw, I’ve heard that they typically start flowering when they reach a certain height. Therefore, I go for maximum growth as the first selection criteria.

The first two years they usually die in the winter if not protected. I keep them in a heated greenhouse.

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This is great. Have you had any that have survived unprotected?

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Yes, I generally overwinter them two years and plant out in spring 3rd year.

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Will they not outgrow their pots after 2 years of growing? What fertility are you adding to their pots? I’m growing some seeds this year but they are quite expensive despite me being near their native range. Fruits are going for 25-45$ea. at my local farmers market, seeds are going for 1$ea.

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Shouldn’t they do fine in your climate, unless the cultivars are from far south. Their native range goes far north to Canada and there are even couple trees planted close to where I live in Southern Finland. At least one of them is (or was the last time I read about it) 15 years old so it has gone through years with extented periods of below -30C. Here they will probably not fruit in a while because the summer is just too short and cool. One of those trees is just 2 metres high so it’s not growing very fast. Wish I had my own place where I could just chuck countless amounts of seeds to see which survive.

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As you can see in the photos above, I bare-root them every winter and bunch them together. That way 800 seedlings take up 1% of the space if I had them overwinter in pots. They also don’t get pot-bound.

I fertilize all my container grown plants with granulated fava bean.

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Yes, they should do fine in our climate and we have older trees here too. One of my colleagues in Denmark has a stand of pawpaw in orchard pattern that is producing. The first couple of years, the seedlings are more prone to dying in the winter, esp. the first year when the shoot barely leaves the ground. Another reason why pawpaw seems to get hurt in winter is that the roots are very succulent, ie. contains lots of water. I have best experience overwintering them in the beginning. I grow them in large containers, 100-200 seedlings at a time, which doesn’t take up so much space. And then bunch them together for the winter, where they take up even less space. The seedlings don’t seem to mind.

My seed comes from Atlantic coast in US (Maryland) and Germany (offspring of known cultivars, esp. Sunflower).

I would probably get much better results with seed from more Northern ranges. Do you have contacts that sell seed or fruit?

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What I was trying to get to was that it is not winter (as in coldness) that kills and probably not the size of the transplant per se. Might be that weather is so changable during winter going between warmish and frosts, but might be also that they dry out completely because it’s not cold enough to keep everything frozen. Or there is too much water and they get water logged. Might do just as well if they were sown directly, but that again brings it’s own challenges concerning space.

Northern coastal might be better than just as north as possible. Not sure how far north in the coast they go. And I mean really close to coast. The climate changes quite a bit one you get even 20km inland. Colder winters, but at the same time more hot weather. At some point I read a stydy that they would need 2200 GDD, but I’m not sure anymore if that was in F or C or what was the baseline temperature used. Point is that parts of the northern range they might also get good amounts of heat and be prepared for the winter and parts of the range were the summers and winters are milder might be better for you.

I have no contacts. I have only been curious about the matter over the years, but because I have no place to put matters in action, I haven’t made any contacts. If you aren’t member in facebooks EFNEX-European fruit and nut explorers, you might want to try there.

I also am growing pawpaw from seed. I stratified them in the refrigerator in damp paper towels for a couple months until they sprouted, then i planted them in one gallon containers. They took a surprisingly long time to emerge… it was July by then. By then i assumed they just weren’t going to do anything but i left the containers in place because i was busy. So now I have about eight seedlings that are in good shape. Their leaves are getting ready to shed for the winter. I’m probably going to overwinter them in the one gallon pots and then plant them out in the spring.

Pawpaw is native here in western Illinois zone 6a, but not common. I’ve never actually seen one or had the opportunity to taste its fruit. I got the seeds at the Giving Gardens seed swap from a friend of a friend. I’m hoping to establish a grove of them somewhere, long term.

Slightly off topic, I’m also planting American persimmon seeds this fall. Persimmon is also native here but also not very common anymore. I’m told that there used to be more of them, but in recent years people have been cutting them down because the fruit “makes a mess.” I’m trying to be a steward of the persimmons in the hope that future generations of humans may not be idiots. The flavor of ripe persimmon is incredible, life-changing, but people around here don’t seem to have any interest in them or are even hostile to them.

I’m hopeful to experience the flavor of a ripe pawpaw someday. Perhaps from one of the trees I’m growing or perhaps i will get lucky someday and find a mature one that’s already bearing fruit.

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Interesting discussion as I just yesterday ordered some pawpaw seeds. Prima x Sunflower. I was planing to plant half of them straigt in the back of the garden and the other half in a pot.

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There is a lot of prevailing sentiment about Asmina triloba that caters to their typical habitat. And, well this makes a lot senese. It is also said they can not survive in a pot if they freeze. None of this is proving true on my farm. What is proving true, however, is the baseline genetic pool makes all the difference. Take, for example, my experiment from the past three years:

Two two pound bags of pawpaw seeds - one order from Peaceful Heritage nursery in Kentucky with direct access to the Kentucky State pool of genetics (a proverbial treasure trove of Southern genetics) and the other from Oikos Tree Crops in Michigan. Same treatments to the seeds - ie exact same stratification beginning and end. Not only were the Kentucky seeds simply nowhere near as resilient in germinating (they pretty much stunk - lol) but they lacked vitality of any kind. The Oikos seeds, on the other hand, were from the original wild stand of Corwin Davis’ Taytwo genetic lineage. That’s essentially north-central Michigan. I live in a brutal climate. Some might say my pawpaw project is an eccentric and whimsical stupidity - lol. Well, the Oikos Taytwo line that made it into pots (nearly 120) saw 70% survival rate in a leaky lean to greenhouse that was surrounded by -40F for 5 days this past January. Those pots absolutely froze for at least two months. The only supplemental heat was a space heater that generally did very little of anything given the greenhouse conditions as a whole. I also had planted 15 of the first year seedlings in a clearing by my pond I had sheetmulched and protected from the numerous deer and elk that trounce through here (despite what conventional wisdom would say - ie the cyanide release from pawpaws would deter eating - deer and elk up here eat literally anything by the end of the drought months and before fall rains). Those pawpaws (and D. virginiana) were in the raw elements of -40F but insulated by the mulch and the 18" of snow at the time. Here they are this spring:


My overarching point here is there is a lot of conventionally shared wisdom in the plant world that is simply just not accurate or in the very least is immensely obfuscated. Will these pawpaws grow fruit? That’s an immense challenge where I am but I am sure going to try and find out. This season - year two of the Taytwo line - I planted about 15 more by a basalt wall or giant boulders with some level of thermal mass impact:

Anywho, dream big. Challenge the paradigm. Best of luck. Those seedlings looked very strong.

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Great to hear these experiences. The American seed I got was through Sheffield Seed (I believe from a Maryland source - I believe Sheffield has a Michigan source too, I wonder if that’s the same lineage as yours). Do you know of any seed sources that are more Northern you can recommend for me? My limitation is not so much the winter per se. Instead, it is often that the summers are not hot and warm enough that the wood fully matures. Especially young woody plants that are on the edge climate-wise seem to perform better in this regard after a few years.

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Are there any decent seed sources in the EU?? I would LOVE to get my hands on a larger quantity of seed. This is a fruit that is at the top of my list to grow.

I was thinking that direct seeding would be a great way to go, especially since the tap root would not be damaged in any way. My thoughts are that this, combined with some sort of bio-inoculant, would help the young seedlings grow much more quickly, and become much more resilient.

I love Sheffield. They have a bounty of really solid tree seed sources. I imagine you’ll have very good success there. I had really good success with their New Mexico Piñon pine seeds this past year as I try to further diversify my conifers up this way. I aim to work with several of their seeds this winter. I think there is a good bet Sheffield is working with the same genetics - I can ask Ken at Oikos as he has a working relationship with them. I think you are on the right path in terms of selecting for the genetic expression that will work with your summers. My winters and frosts are such an extreme variable I am absolutely pushing a boulder uphill. Anywho, I’ll ask Ken about the Michigan genetics @ Sheffield. I know he supplies the Michigan genetics for the ‘Michigan Tree Collards’ at ‘The Tree Collard Project’, for example. I texted Ken and will report back what he says.

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You can try contacting Flo in Germany who runs a nursery focused on Pawpaw and also sell many of the new cultivars https://www.pawpawschule.de

Split part of post to here: Tap roots on woody plants - fragile or not?

Split part of post to here: Bio-inoculants

OK, Ken has no idea where they got their genetics from but it isn’t him. LOL. He suspects they are probably from a wild stand. I’ve reached out to Sheffield Seeds to see if we can’t learn more there. Would be fun to know, regardless. The Taytwo pool of genetics, and the Corwin Davis work, was from an original wild stand as well. It was simply selected down to the preferred sizes and shapes. Perhaps, they are from a similar stand…which would be quite fun.

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Sheffield had two types of seed with one of them called “Selected”. Those obviously came with a higher price. I bought some of them and then a bit more of the others in bulk.

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OK. Already got a reply for you:

Hello Joseph,

Our Asimina triloba seeds are wild collected. The ‘Select Seed’ seeds are from orchards of varieties that are mixed together. And then we also sell by variety, when available. Right now we have Pa Golden and Allegheny.

Ken no longer sells seed in bulk to us anymore, but we used to get some seeds from him thought I’m not sure we ever got pawpaws from him.

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I also try to grow pawpaw . the first two years most of my seedlings where eaten by slug I suspect, the young bark was so fragile (and probabely so delicious to them). .
But last year, at last, I had more success, so I have now 8 two-year-old survivors in pots and 4 in the ground.

My seed source in france is “semences du puy”

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Split part of post to here: Tap roots on woody plants - fragile or not?

Split part of post to here: Bio-inoculants